We often see gowns with wonderful coloured patterns on both men & women in 15th century art. My question is, just what are these gowns made from? Am I seeing a silk brocade, some sort of tapestry, embroidery, or something completely different? Any advice would be most welcome. Also, if anyone could provide sources for said material, I would be very grateful as I’d like to try and make one of these sort of gowns in the near future.

Here is an example by Bouts:

And another by Christus:

While on the subject of gowns, I see that St. Eglius’ (the fellow in red with the scales in the Christus painting) gown has no visible closures? Would these be hook and eye type closures, or something more sinister?

Thanks in advance,
Jon

[ 07-14-2004: Message edited by: Jonathan ]

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No sources that anyone on a meager salary can come even close to affording.

M Perkins and Sons sells some fine textiles as does Watts and Company (Ecclesiastical cloth) some in silk but most are a viscose cotton blend and the patterns are medieval-esque unless otherwise noted. The caveat is that I do not believe either company sells to individuals. When last I checked (2 years ago, some of this stuff was running about $150 to $200 a yard.

There are probably other sources, but I have made a full scale search in years.

[ 09-01-2004: Message edited by: Martin ]

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Here is a larger version of the St. Eligius image.

I apologize in advance if this is a dumb question, but I'm also a little confused by the well to do chap in the back. He is apparently wearing a nice blue pleated gown over a nice red doublet with a nice linen shirt. But then, there is this black thing? (see my clever diagram ) What is that? Is it part of the gown? Part of the doublet? Some other thing worn under the doublet but over the shirt? I don't think that this is an isolated instance of this sort of thing either, as I seem to recall seeing similar things on other paintings by other artists from about the same period.

Cheers,
Jon

[ 07-15-2004: Message edited by: Jonathan ]

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There is a reference to printed cloth to imitate expensive brocade. Cenninni in his Libro Del Arte, Dover. mentions doing this for kids' garments (presumably kids of the wealthy and nearly wealthy), also p[resuambly because they grow so quickly and would be a waste of time dressing in too expensive clothes.

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