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Author Topic: New Red Company standards
Gwen
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Member # 126

posted 01-24-2004 03:34 PM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Effective 1-2003:
-All eyelets and buttonholes must be overcast by hand
-If garments are not entirely hand stitched, shirt sleeves and neckline seams must be hand finished so no machine stitching shows on casual inspection
-Only Hugo and Ron M may wear felt "bucket" hat, other men must wear "acorn", bag or other suitable style hat
-No commoner may wear HE "15th C. man's hat"

Effective 1-2004
-All 2003 upgrades
-Belts/pouches shall not be worn over doublets
-The use of cotton clothing (shirts, linings, etc.) is prohibited.
-No midday napping in public areas
-(announced for 2005 season) All doublets must be replaced by 2005 with new, updated pattern (retrofitted "old style" doublets will not be permitted )
-(announced for 2005 season) All men shall have a short coat/gown/jacket, which shall be worn whenever the wearer is not actively engaged in hard labor/activities.

Effective 1-2005
-All 2004 upgrades
- All doublets must be replaced by new, updated pattern (retrofitted "old style" doublets will not be permitted )
-All men shall have a short coat/gown/jacket, which shall be worn whenever the wearer is not actively engaged in hard labor/activities.
-More uniformity in fabric and color to be encouraged within members of the group.


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Seigneur de Leon
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Member # 65

posted 01-24-2004 09:35 PM     Profile for Seigneur de Leon   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Maybe I should post a new topic, but as it is included in this set of rules, maybe you could shed some light here....
No cotton - the aketon dates from the early 12th C. and other sources mention Egyptian cotton, so why this rule? Are you basing this off of rules issued from the 1470's, or is there another reason?
Is this a WotR thing, or was cotton infrequently used in arming jackets?
How appropriate is the cotton & cotton padding from Chivalry Sports, for instance? When applied to the 14th C. Hundred Years War and in France and Italy rather than England and the Low Countries?
I'm curious here at an information level as our standards are far more lax and unlikely to change, so there is no competition factor!

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VERITAS IN INTIMO
VIRES IN LACERTU
SIMPLICITAS IN EXPRESSO


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Gwen
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Member # 126

posted 01-24-2004 10:09 PM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Cotton grows in a small climatic zone that surrounds the Mediterranean, and was spun, woven and made into cloth in Italy and the Middle Eastern Countries. Cotton fabric was considered the clothing of poor people in Italy; even in Italy, mixed fibre (linen/cotton) were considered more luxurious than cloth made entirely of cotton.
Mixed fibre cloth often called bombazino was exported to the rest of Europe, and shows up sporadically in the clothing and household inventories of rich families, often as cloth to be used for bedding and napery. Raw cotton was exported from Italy by the bale and imported into Europe the same way, showing up in both import and export records. Raw cotton fibre was used continuously in Europe from the 12th C. onward as wadding/padding in arming and civilian clothes, bedding and the like. There is very little if any evidence for the processing of cotton into fabric outside of Italy post export. (The Italian Cotton Industry in the Later Middle Ages, 1100-1600, MF Mazzaoui, Cambridge University press, 1981)

Household inventories most often list fabrics on hand and household accounts detail what the fabrics were to be made into. (Paston, Stonor, Cecy, Howard accounts for example) These records give us very good insight into what people were wearing, and linen is the fabric used for clothing and linings.

I’m not sure what you’re asking regarding “cotton padding from Chivalry Sports”. Are they offering cotton padding by the yard like quilt batting? If so, my opinion is that would be fine to use in arming or civilian clothing as wadding, even for RedCo.

Hope that helps-

Gwen

[ 01-24-2004: Message edited by: Ginevra ]


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Seigneur de Leon
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posted 01-25-2004 09:43 AM     Profile for Seigneur de Leon   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Thanks for the information, I was referring to the "Made of 100% heavy cotton duck" from Revival Clothing/Chivalric Books arming coats stuffed with cotton. (Since they list cotton I used them as an example, I don't know where I got Chivalric Sports!?!) I assume you are saying that linen would be stuffed with cotton batting, not cotton duck stuffed with cotton batting? In 14th C. Italy and France?

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VERITAS IN INTIMO
VIRES IN LACERTU
SIMPLICITAS IN EXPRESSO


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Gwen
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posted 01-25-2004 12:36 PM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Linen stuffed with cotton, yes. I'm not armour scholar but I -believe- I've seen discussion of late that brigandines were built on a fustian or hemp canvas base in period, and we know jacks were made of many "folds" of linen and/or deerskin, but that's another animal entirely.

There is strong evidence that 15th C. fustian was a heavy linen warp/cotton weft twill with a brushed or napped finish. if you can get past the brushed twill looking like Dockers issue, it's probably not a bad modern imitation of 15th C. fustian.

As the owner of a "competing" clothing company, it would be ill-advised for me to either recommend nor advise against the Revival Clothing product. Having examined them quite closely in person, I can, however, make the following impartial observations:

-The garment bears VERY LITTLE resemblance to the Charles of Blois coat it is supposed to be a copy of. It's more like a cross between the Charles of Blois and the Charles V coat in Chartres, with a cursory nod to both but lacking the details of either.

-It is unbelievably thick, more along the lines of a coat armour than an arming coat.

-Because of the thickness it is very stiff.

-Arming points are 1/2" wide nylon shoelaces in -very- bright nylon colors, complete with plastic shoelace tips.

-People have asked Jeff if they can be used under his globose breastplate and/or arm harnesses and he's said no, the garment is too thick to function properly under reproduction armour. (He looked at them the same time I did)

-Definately does not meet the requirements of the LH groups I work with, and most that I'm aware of.

I have read on the AA that Revival Clothing is aiming for an SCA market content with "medievaloide" clothing, not the LH market. From what I've seen, I'd say that's a fair assessment. Your mileage may vary.

Gwen


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Seigneur de Leon
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posted 01-25-2004 07:48 PM     Profile for Seigneur de Leon   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
No, just used them as an example for their advertised materials. You answered the question in the first paragraphs - was cotton cloth used rather than just the cotton stuffing.
So much of the Red Co.s & Wolf Argent's documentation is based around England, Flanders & Burgundy, which had a very active wool trade and cloth making industry. I'm looking for differences due to geographical locations in the central and south of France which perhaps wouldn't have had access to these products due to animosity and lack of trade between the regions. It only seems logical that southern trade routes would have taken up some of the slack and therefore provided a totally different product then the Low Countries.
Of course this is way off topic...

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VERITAS IN INTIMO
VIRES IN LACERTU
SIMPLICITAS IN EXPRESSO


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Gwen
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posted 01-25-2004 09:03 PM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
So much of the Red Co.s & Wolf Argent's documentation is based around England, Flanders & Burgundy, which had a very active wool trade and cloth making industry.

Wouldn't presume to speak for WA, but I'm doing research for RedCo. which is Burgundy-based.

I'm looking for differences due to geographical locations in the central and south of France which perhaps wouldn't have had access to these products
Rheims in France was renowned world-wide for making the finest linen goods, so I don't think you're going to find the difference you're looking for.

This is way off-topic
True, but you're asking the questions other people may be thinking, so it's instructive for everyone for me to answer you. Some RedCo. rules may seem random or arbitrary; if I explain why we do things the way we do you can either agree with my research or refute it. If your research is better than mine, the new information you present just might inspire me to change a flawed or obsolete RedCo. policy. That's a win-win situation in my book.

Gwen


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LHF
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posted 01-25-2004 10:43 PM     Profile for LHF   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
hey Gwen,

i'm excited about your new updated doublets. the point holes allways bugged me, though it was understandable that most guys didn't want to walk aroung with their butts showing. but then again, i prefer my split hose with them rolled down to my knees, much to the chagrin of my freinds.

two questions:

1. why the no belt/pouch over doublet?

2. any progress on an off the peg "germanic" doublet with detached sleeves?

thanks

daniel

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Db

D'rustynail


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Gwen
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posted 01-26-2004 12:09 AM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
1. why the no belt/pouch over doublet?
I'm convinced "Doublet and hosen as outerwear" is a 15th C. reenactor's myth; the new standards strive to bring us in line with historical accuracy rather than "reenactor cloning".

2. any progress on an off the peg "germanic" doublet with detached sleeves?
No plans to offer one, it's too specialized a style to be economically viable.

Gwen


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Seigneur de Leon
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posted 01-26-2004 12:16 AM     Profile for Seigneur de Leon   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Okay - while I'm pestering you with questions -
quote:
-Only Hugo and Ron M may wear felt "bucket" hat, other men must wear "acorn", bag or other suitable style hat
-No commoner may wear HE "15th C. man's hat"

Not knowing who Hugo and Ron M. are, what is the significance between the different styles of hats? Are the acorn hats "commoner" hats? The bucket style officers' hats?

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VERITAS IN INTIMO
VIRES IN LACERTU
SIMPLICITAS IN EXPRESSO


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Gwen
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posted 01-26-2004 01:54 AM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
what is the significance between the different styles of hats?
I wouldn't say the different styles are "significant", I'd say it's just more likely to see certain types of hats of certain social classes and not on others.

Are the acorn hats "commoner" hats?
No, you see them on everyone from valets to nobles. The upper classes tend to wear them -under- other hats, like chaperones and those goofy furry bowler hats. In Rene' you see guys standing around with a hat in their hand, yet they still have this style on their head. It's kinda weird and cool at the same time.

Here's a picture of Jeff and his valets Rubin and Tobias all wearing "acorn" hats:

The bucket style officers' hats?
Exactly the opposite! The simple felt "bucket" hats are seen on the lowest classes, that's why I'm restricting who can wear them. I really shouldn't let Hugo wear one, because he's the Sargeant/Campmaster; however, he has a unique way of wearing his hat that everyone finds very endearing, so I'm grandfathering it in:

Gunner Ron M. has an eye condition that leaves him with paralyzing migranes if he's out in bright light. Since we don't use sunglasses, I try to help him out by keeping him in a kettle hat with a wide brim if he's in armour and allowing him to wear the bucket hat when he's not.

Gwen

[ 01-27-2004: Message edited by: Ginevra ]


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Seigneur de Leon
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posted 01-26-2004 07:54 AM     Profile for Seigneur de Leon   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Oh no, mine is the same as his! I'm a commoner!

Thanks for the information, I think I'm all out of dumb questions now. I'm looking forward to your "surprise", though!

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VERITAS IN INTIMO
VIRES IN LACERTU
SIMPLICITAS IN EXPRESSO


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Jeff Johnson
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posted 01-26-2004 09:00 AM     Profile for Jeff Johnson   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Ginevra:
[b]Effective 1-2003:
-No commoner may wear HE "15th C. man's hat"

[/b]

Commoner doesn't apply to soldiers does it - Just the working-level chaps? The "guardroom" fresco depicts guards lounging around wearing hats much like the HE 15th C mans hat.

quote:

-Belts/pouches shall not be worn over doublets


Essentially, "You can wear your belts & pouches, but wear them over a gown". Makes sense - you don't need a weapon or pouch unless you are going out & for that you should be wearing a gown.

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Geoffrey Bourrette
Man At Arms


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Gwen
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posted 01-26-2004 11:23 AM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
The "guardroom" fresco depicts guards lounging around wearing hats much like the HE 15th C mans hat.

"The "guardroom" fresco"? Can you give me some more info so I can look at this work you're referencing? Nothing's springing to mind, so I'm curious.....

Thanks!

Gwen


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Bob Hurley
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posted 01-26-2004 02:13 PM     Profile for Bob Hurley     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Ginevra:
[b]Effective 1-2003:

-Only Hugo and Ron M may wear felt "bucket" hat, other men must wear "acorn", bag or other suitable style hat
[/B]


Why are they different?


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Fire Stryker
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posted 01-26-2004 02:27 PM     Profile for Fire Stryker   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Gwen said above that Ron is prone to migraines due to prolonged exposure to bright light/sun. Would avoid "sunglasses".
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Ron M
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posted 01-26-2004 04:12 PM     Profile for Ron M   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Gwen also lets me wander about at night, drinking the blood of unsuspecting victims.

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Ron Moen


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Fire Stryker
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posted 01-26-2004 04:17 PM     Profile for Fire Stryker   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Kind of dangerous considering all the wooden stakes and mallets in camp, don't you think?

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ad finem fidelis


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Gwen
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posted 01-26-2004 05:08 PM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
So -that's- where all the new recruits go! I always wondered why our attrition rate was so high...

Gwen


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Gwen
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posted 01-27-2004 03:31 AM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hey Jeff-

Jeffrey just showed me the guardroom scene you referred to. It is Italian and is dated 1500, which explains the hat.

This particular style was widely adopted in Italy and Germany about 1480-90, and there are subtle differences between this style and the earlier 1450-1475 style. Unfortunately there's that famous shot of Clive Bartlett wearing one in in the "Medieval Soldier" book, and everyone went indicriminately mad for them.

There's a lot of this style of hat being worn by the people in "Medieval Life Illustrations" (CB Grafton), and these woodcuts are primarily German and primarily very late 15th C. I've not done any targeted research so I don't have any references to hand but it looks to me like this style became popular post 1475-80, and more in Germany and Italy than in Burgundy and France. I find the acorn and assorted bag styles earlier, but this split brim style looks to me to be a tidge later, after the fashion revolution of 1480.

I've dropped it from our standards because this hat does not appear to be common or widespead in Burgundy in 1471.

As always, I'm willing to be proven wrong!

Gwen


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Strongbow
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posted 01-27-2004 02:29 PM     Profile for Strongbow     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Any good pictures of the appropriate "bag" style hats? I have an acrorn hat, but seriously look like a complete dork wearing it... unlike the manly Jeff Hedgecock.

Strongbow


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Karen Larsdatter
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posted 01-27-2004 04:56 PM     Profile for Karen Larsdatter   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
If I'm interpreting the terminology correctly, there are manly working men in the Bedford Hours wearing bag hats.
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Bob Hurley
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posted 01-27-2004 07:54 PM     Profile for Bob Hurley     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Fire Stryker:
Gwen said above that Ron is prone to migraines due to prolonged exposure to bright light/sun. Would avoid "sunglasses".

My bad, I should have refreshed the screen when I came back to the console, didn't see the previous answer. Duh, me!


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