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»  FireStryker Living History Forum   » History   » Medieval Lifestyles, Activities, and Equipment   » 14th cent. hip belts?

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Author Topic: 14th cent. hip belts?
Bernard
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posted 09-25-2002 12:38 AM     Profile for Bernard     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I am not exactly sure what they are called, but I am referring to belts worn in the later 14th century that were made up of many linking plates, usually with gold smith's work on them and often bejeweled. I am searching for first: a name for these belts, any information on their use, and any information about anyone who knows where to obtain a reproduction of such a belt.
Thanks very much

Bernard


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Fire Stryker
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posted 09-25-2002 08:36 AM     Profile for Fire Stryker   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi Bernard,

I think what you are looking for is called a "plaque belt". Other than that, I am away from my library and can't offer any images, and as it is before the time I portray, I don't know who offers them for sale.

Jenn

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Fire Stryker
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posted 09-25-2002 08:43 AM     Profile for Fire Stryker   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi Bernard,

I suspected that this topic came up once before so I did a search of the FS threads and found this one. It may be of some use.

cheers,

Jenn
http://www.wolfeargent.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=17&t=200059

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Johannes
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posted 09-25-2002 02:14 PM     Profile for Johannes   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
The very best source for information on belts is Ilse Fingerlin's "Guertel des hohen un spaeten Mittelalters." In german and long out of print, it's worth the effort to track and copy. It has a good section on the Cleveland belt, which has a U shaped buckle open on one side, and a good illustration of the hidden hook and eye, where the hook is inserted through one of a series of small rings sewn to the back of the belt. She illustrates a number of extant belts, but all of them are composites, made of metal bits attached to cloth or leather.
I have found the best place to find the all metal plaque belts is sculpture, effigies and figural. If I remember correctly, the last time I was at the Met there was a nice female statue with this type belt. I would have to dig to see if I have pictures of it.

Talbot's has a replica plaque belt at http://talbotsfineaccessories.com/Jewelry/belt2.jpg I am not sure what closure he uses.

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Johannes


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Callum Forbes
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posted 09-25-2002 05:55 PM     Profile for Callum Forbes   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Johannes wrote:

Talbot's has a replica plaque belt at http://talbotsfineaccessories.com/Jewelry/belt2.jpg I am not sure what closure he uses.

He uses a simple pin arrangement. I'm not sure how "period" this is as information from the period is scarce. But I'm more than happy with it.

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Bernard
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posted 09-26-2002 04:54 PM     Profile for Bernard     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Thanks for the info, the refrences about the eye and hooks on the back are very helpfull and I will search throught the pics on the French website as soon as I get time. And Talbot's looks interesting. I may try to make my own with castings or perhaps in clay if I can find the right type of glaze, not period, but it will look and feel quite like metal, except for being lighter.
Bernard

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Ron M
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posted 09-27-2002 09:22 PM     Profile for Ron M   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
You may also want to check out a site called Raymonds Quiet Press (www.quietpress.com).Sir Raymond makes various reproductions in bronze, and I'm pretty sure that he has a few of the belts that you're looking for.I purchased a St.Martins badge from him earlier this year and I'm very happy with it.

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Ron Moen


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Alienor
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posted 10-07-2002 01:56 PM     Profile for Alienor   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Can somebody tell me whether the belts we're discussing are made from metal plaques linked together, or plaques attached to a leather backing? I've never been quite clear.

I'm familiar with the earlier/less fancy belt style which involves a leather belt with smaller plaques riveted to it -- decorative rosettes or acorns or something of that sort. I haven't seen a clear representation of whether the later belts are just a "total coverage" version of this with bigger plaques, or if the leather at some point disappeared from the equation altogether. Does anyone know?

Alienor =)


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J.K. Vernier
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posted 10-07-2002 02:44 PM     Profile for J.K. Vernier   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
The problem is that very little survives of these large plaque belts, although there is a lot more evidence for narrower belts. The only evidence which I am aware of for belts linked together without a backing, is a fragment which was in R.E. Oakshott's collection, and which is illustrated in his "The Archeology of Weapons," Fig. 13. Unfortunately he says little about it, and its identification as part of a plaque belt is by no means certain (Although it certainly looks like it is one). Other than this, there is little artifactual evidence available, aside from (1) several round plaques in the Museum of London, illustrated in their Dress Accessories catalogue, which might (but I stress, might) be from a belt like that on the Black Prince's effigy, and which have rivet stems for attachment to a backing; (2) a large silver-gilt buckle in the form of a castle gatehouse, in a museum in Bucharest. This is illustrated in the catalogue from the exhibit "Die Parler" (cologne 1979), and also in Lightbown, Medieval Jewellery. This buckle has side-tabs which would have held a leather or textile strap. Similar architectural buckles are seen particularly in Germanic artworks of the later 14th century. There is a fair amount of evidence in artwork for large plaques attached to flexible belts. Whether or not linked belts saw much use seems to be a vexed question.
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Johannes
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posted 10-14-2002 05:35 PM     Profile for Johannes   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Alienor:
[B]Can somebody tell me whether the belts we're discussing are made from metal plaques linked together, or plaques attached to a leather backing? I've never been quite clear.

In my quick survey of Fingerlin, nearly all of the belts she details there are mounts attached to wool, silk, or velvet. I have been meaning to do a count of each, but haven't gotten to it yet. The complete belt in Cleveland is 3rd quarter of the 14th C., the mounts touch all the way around the belt, and the backing is wool. The large military belts may very well be of leather, but I don't know of any that still exist.

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Johannes


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Meg
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posted 10-17-2002 12:22 PM     Profile for Meg   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi, a couple of our guys wear plaque belts (they're pretty much bang on for us - late 14th century). The example I can think of most immediately consists of large painted and gilded pewter plates, mounted on blue velvet. As far as I'm aware Gary either had the plates cast or cast them himself, and I think they're attached to the velvet in a similar way to the smaller belt studs we all use: the pewter plaque has a stem/pin protruding from the back, which is passed through the velvet and then hammered over some sort of washer thingy. (Please excuse technical ignorance!) I guess superglue would have been easier I have a couple of pictures that might be of interest; rather than posting them directly, feel free to contact me and I can let you have them. Sorry to have been so vague, but I hope this helps!

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La Belle Dame sans Merci


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