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Author Topic: Hob nails, may I ?
Ulfgar
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posted 02-03-2002 07:55 PM     Profile for Ulfgar     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi all, Can anyone point me towards some advice for the use, or lack thereof, of hobnails in the latter half of the fifteenth century? My good turnshoes seem to wear down far too fast by 'arf when on a march.

[ 02-03-2002: Message edited by: Ulfgar ]

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Yes, these are bruises from fighting.That's right, I'm enlightened!


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Otto von Teich
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posted 02-09-2002 09:55 AM     Profile for Otto von Teich   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hello Julian,Good question, I'm not sure about hobnails,but it seems like somewhere I read they sometimes sewed knotted cords{hemp?) onto the bottom of the shoe for traction.Anyone know if this is correct?..Otto
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Gwen
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posted 02-09-2002 12:16 PM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
The reference for the cords on the soles of shoes comes from "How a man shall be armed".

Ulfgar, have you tried pattens? They would definitely help decrease wear.

Gwen


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Fire Stryker
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posted 02-09-2002 04:31 PM     Profile for Fire Stryker   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I was looking through the book "Shoes and Pattens" reprint. On page 101, fig. 142 they show a leather patten (early to mid 15th c.) Apparently the sole was restitched at least once. A new additional layer was nailed onto the underside as a final repair.

I haven't "seen" any shoes yet with nails in the sole. My sources are somewhat limited.


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Ulfgar
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posted 02-12-2002 06:52 PM     Profile for Ulfgar     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Yah, I use pattens and love em. A good pair of pattens adds many months of life to my boots. However I find pattens to be difficult to march or run in and cannot find any pictures of soldiers marching in them when on campaign.
I am in the practice of repairing my worn shoes with clump soles, but have not tried "threaded" soles yet. Does anyone have any idea how long a set of shoes was expected to last in period?

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Yes, these are bruises from fighting.That's right, I'm enlightened!


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Gwen
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posted 02-12-2002 10:25 PM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Well, records indicate that retainers were to have a new suit of clothes -including shoes- yearly, so one surmises that a pair of shoes should last a year.

You're right about marching in pattens. Of course many soldiers are shown marching *barefoot*, and I don't know how many modern people would be up to that!

Gwen


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Crossbow Mike
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posted 02-13-2002 04:34 PM     Profile for Crossbow Mike     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi Ginevra,

I don't think that a pair of turnshoes would have lasted a year. It would of course depend on how many times you got them repaired.

Karl Knutsson Bonde, a Swedish 15th century king, declared ca 1450 that all the Swedish farm helpers (I don't know the correct terms in English)had the right to have four pairs of shoes every year plus regular pay, but I guess that this must have been some kind of minimum.

My own pair of turnshoes have a ca 5-7 mm leather sole and they are worn quite a lot after only one week on Wisbys cobble stone streets.
I've thought about trying clump soles but I'm not sure how they are attached, and if they where used during the 14th century. Does anyone know anything about this?

Crossbow Mike

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Crossbow Mike
Swedish Crossbow Guild
In domine et non in arcu meo sperabo


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Ulfgar
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posted 02-14-2002 08:17 PM     Profile for Ulfgar     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I have attached clump soles using flesh stitching for the new sole. There are directions for flesh stitching in the "MOL (museum of London) shoes and pattens" but basically you can use a curved awl to make tunnel type holes that do not go all the way through the leather, but simply "U" through one face only. By using this method I loose stitch the entire sole to the new sole and then pull it tight. It seems to work well and is a lot less work than making new shoes or completely re-doing the soles on the old pair.
The MOL should also be able to tell you if they are OK for the C14.

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Yes, these are bruises from fighting.That's right, I'm enlightened!


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Crossbow Mike
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posted 02-15-2002 02:38 PM     Profile for Crossbow Mike     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi Ulfgar,

Is there an easy way to obtain a copy of "Museum of London shoes and pattens"?
Do they have a website maybe?
Any more books from them that is worth buying?

I have most of the crossbow literature that is possible to get, but I'm trying to find/buy more books about clothing, weapons and 14C stuff, so any suggestions is velcome.

Crossbow Mike

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Crossbow Mike
Swedish Crossbow Guild
In domine et non in arcu meo sperabo


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Phillipe de Pamiers
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posted 02-15-2002 02:42 PM     Profile for Phillipe de Pamiers   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Boydell and Brewer has shoes and pattens in reprint now.

Go to there web page at:
http://www.boydell.co.uk/

look under the following series:

Medieval Finds from Excavations in London

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Phillipe de Pamiers


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Crossbow Mike
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posted 02-16-2002 05:17 PM     Profile for Crossbow Mike     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi Phillipe,

Thanks for the tip.

I have tried to order it from Boydel & Brewer a couple of times now this evening, but something goes wrong.
I have sent them a message about it so we'll have to see how it works out. I hope this works out because they have some books that seems nice.

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Crossbow Mike
Swedish Crossbow Guild
In domine et non in arcu meo sperabo


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Cornelius
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posted 02-17-2002 01:51 AM     Profile for Cornelius     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
hi ho
Ulfgar - when you say clump soles do you mean the bit that is attached to the sole/rand bit - if so its stiched in by tunnel stich not edge/flesh stiching or are we taking about the same thing....

Cornelius


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Ulfgar
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posted 02-17-2002 06:30 PM     Profile for Ulfgar     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Cornelius
I was attaching my clump soles directly to the previous sole. A clump bieng a repair to the shoe with the new sole bieng sewn directly onto the underside of the previous sole rather than to the rand. This is because I would have to cut the previous sole completely off were I to use the rand to attach the new sole. This way I can effect a quicker repair and end up with a thicker sole overall.

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Yes, these are bruises from fighting.That's right, I'm enlightened!


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Crossbow Mike
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posted 02-18-2002 05:58 AM     Profile for Crossbow Mike     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Thank you again Phillipe and Ulfgar

I've ordered Museum of Londons "Shoes and Pattens" book from Amazon today, as I said earlier, Boydel & Brewers online ordering didn't work.

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Crossbow Mike
Swedish Crossbow Guild
In domine et non in arcu meo sperabo


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NEIL G
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posted 02-18-2002 06:55 AM     Profile for NEIL G     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi;

This is probably a damnfool question, but the consensus above appears to be that turnshoes don't last long, which accords with my own experience.

However, if I buy a pair of leather-soled shoes today, without any form of nails, heel taps etc, I usually get about a year's wear out of them if I wear them for work most days.

Now, I'm wondering why there's such a difference. First thought are that the moden shoes are better made, but that's a bit glib, since shoemaking technology hasn't changed greatly since the c19th as far as I know, and everybody in the ACW seems to bitch about how fast their shoes wear out, too.

Is it simply that I'm mostly walking around on carpet and dry paving stones, whereas they'd be walking around on beaten earth/grit which would be more abrasive for the soles?

Any thoughts?

Neil


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Fire Stryker
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posted 02-18-2002 12:46 PM     Profile for Fire Stryker   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Amount of walking you do, materials your shoe is made out of, and thickness of the sole.

Do you wear the same shoe all the time? Did our medieval counterparts?

I don't know about you, but I have more than one pair of shoes (no quite like Mrs. Marcos) ranging from leather upper/leather sole, to leather upper/rubber sole, to nike sneakers (12 years old btw: sole is rubber/ upper is nylon). I don't wear these shoes over all sorts of terrain nor do I wear on specific pair all the time.

My medieval turnshoes have a considerably "thin" sole. The only shoes that I have worn that are close in composition are ballet slippers, not toe shoes, but the flats. I had a pair that lasted about a year. I wore those ALL over the place on all sorts of surfaces(fashion thing). They eventually wore through, I just replaced them with another pair.

Seems that on some of what I have read, the medievals would repair until it couldn't be repaired any more.


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NEIL G
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posted 02-18-2002 01:32 PM     Profile for NEIL G     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
As I said, I used my work shoes for comparison, so they ar being worn the whole working week. They don't get worn much outside work.

I work mostly at a desk, but no more than a medieval craftsman like a weaver would be sitting at his loom, maybe less.

Soles are about 3mm leather, and wear through in about 12 mths of use, give or take...

Even allowing for the above, they seem to be lasting a lot longer than the turnshoes discussed above.

Neil


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J.K. Vernier
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posted 02-18-2002 02:52 PM     Profile for J.K. Vernier   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
As to the durability of modern leather-soled shoes, I recall a factoid from American Civil War practice - soldiers on the march were (ideally) expected to need new shoes every 60 days. Army brogues had sewn or pegged soles of 2-3 thicknesses of leather, but how much wear they could sustain before the army considered them useless, I'm not sure.

My experience with turnshoes of 1 thickness of leather, is that they will not last a whole year even if worn only on weekends. I know two people, one a fighter and one a serious dancer, who have worn holes in the balls of the foot within a few months.

I wonder if there is a difference between the quality of commercial grade sole leather and more ordinary thick leather. I know that sole leather was traditionally hammered on a lap stone to consolidate the fibers of the leather before the shoe was sewn, but the exact nature of this process is a mystery to me.

I doubt that corded soles would last any longer than plain leather. The cords seem intended to improve traction for foot combat, but I can imagine they would be badly shredded after a session in the lists.

BTW, one useful book on shoes which I have looked at is Swedish: Skomod och Skotillverkning fran medeltiden till vara dagar, by Ernfrid Jafvert, Stockholm, 1938. Good pictures of medieval shoes, a couple of lasts, and knives (The museum of London book includes no tools). I can't read Swedish, though. Has anyone else seen this book?


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Crossbow Mike
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posted 02-18-2002 04:21 PM     Profile for Crossbow Mike     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi J.K.,

I can read Swedish

but I have never seen this book

Why must all/many of the more interesting books be so old? It isn't easy to find a book that was written 1938.

[ 02-18-2002: Message edited by: Crossbow Mike ]

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Crossbow Mike
Swedish Crossbow Guild
In domine et non in arcu meo sperabo


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Crossbow Mike
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posted 02-18-2002 04:23 PM     Profile for Crossbow Mike     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi J.K.,

I can try and help you with translation (sp?) if you have a scanner.

[ 02-18-2002: Message edited by: Crossbow Mike ]

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Crossbow Mike
Swedish Crossbow Guild
In domine et non in arcu meo sperabo


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Ulfgar
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posted 02-18-2002 10:38 PM     Profile for Ulfgar     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
On sole leather, I believe modern sole leather is treated with a thouroughly modern process to make it as hard and stiff as it is. I was told something about pressing it under a couple of tonnes of pressure while still wet, by the guys at the local leather supplies shop. I don't know if medieval leather was similarly treated.

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Yes, these are bruises from fighting.That's right, I'm enlightened!


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Crossbow Mike
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posted 02-19-2002 03:02 AM     Profile for Crossbow Mike     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi Ulfgar,

I don't know about soles, but the over leather of today is stretched much, much more than it was in earlier times.
Modern shoes will hold their shape better.

I've read that many shoes from archeolgical digs looks like they came from people with very big and fat feet.

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Crossbow Mike
Swedish Crossbow Guild
In domine et non in arcu meo sperabo


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LHF
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posted 03-21-2002 11:23 PM     Profile for LHF   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
hello all,

Julian, you heard right about modern sole leather. it is "compressed" making it much stiffer and longer wearing than say the leather used on the uppers.

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Db

D'rustynail


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Anne-Marie
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posted 03-22-2002 02:58 AM     Profile for Anne-Marie   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by J.K. Vernier:

My experience with turnshoes of 1 thickness of leather, is that they will not last a whole year even if worn only on weekends. I know two people, one a fighter and one a serious dancer, who have worn holes in the balls of the foot within a few months.

thats very odd...I've never worn through a pair of soles yet. I've blown out the stitching tons of times (went through two pair at Pennsic), and one pair I made for someone else has the leather actually getting worn through (her feet are oddly shaped and it was really cheap leather).

I have one pair of shoes thats several years old, and it got worn every weekend for two years, and now is a loaner pair so still gets a fair amount of use.

I found, though, that what kills them is walking on pavement. One trip to the car in my leather soled shoes will create enough wear that you can actually see it. If they're wet and THEN you go on pavement, its even worse.

I'm very careful not to wear them on pavement, sticking to grass/dirt/sand whenever possible, or wearing my pattens (which have now seen two years of solid wear and and are looking like it ). Now, I'm not a dancer or fighter, but I am a cook, and I wander around ALOT.

Apprentice contracts say that you get a new pair of shoes per year, so it makes sense that they should last that long, being worn every day. My amateur efforts at cordwaining last about the same before the linen thread rots out. Restitch and you're good to go for another season (I routinely do this every year just for good measure)

or so my experimental archaeology says . Of course its WET here, that might have something to do with it too (ie leather doenst dry out, so doesnt get as brittle? maybe?)

--AM

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"Let Good Come of It"


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jcesarelli
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posted 03-22-2002 09:47 AM     Profile for jcesarelli   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
For the people who ride in armor, what do you use for riding boots? I want to replace my obviously modern boots with more appropriate, period gear. Considering the wear and abuse armor inflicts on modern boots, what would you wear and how would you protect what you wore?

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Joseph

It is the very difficult horses that have the most to give you. Lendon Gray


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