Ok, so I'm going to spend some time working on more garb this weekend, and I need some advice. I currently use a machine for expediency (I know, bad Maun), and this will be no exception.

My problem is with unravelling fabric. I'm really tired of having to cut strings out of my tunics every time I wash them. My current method of locking the edge, which is apparently inadequate, is to run a zig-zag stitch along the edge of the fabric to try to hold it together. I figured that it would unravel for a bit, but then pretty much stop. Not so far...

So, I figured that as long as I was going to do something different, I ought to at least find out what was done in period. More specifically, c.1201 southern England (Kent). I figure that the edge of the fabric was probably just rolled and stitched (whip-stitched even) over. Am I close?

I guess I'm asking for two things:

• A modern method of stopping the edges from fraying that I can do quickly and reliably.
• An appropriate, historical method, that I may learn something in the process and do it the right way next time.

For reference, I'm making a tunic based on a Boksten pattern and modified to match Maciejowski Bible pictures (adding buttoned sleeves, for instance). I'm using medium-weight linen.

Historically
There are a number of seams and finishing techniques described in the MOL Textiles and Clothing book, I'll try to post descriptions from it tonight if nobody is able to before.

I suppose you could 'cheat' on the run-and-fell seam by making the running stitch part on the machine (ie, sew a normal seam), then trim one of the seam edges, and press and stitch the fell (folded) seam edge. I have started using this type of seam on linens, and it works very nicely, it is reversible and doesnt fray at all. The felling stitch is really quite quick to do by hand - the only thing is that you really really should press the seam prior to doing this.

Woolens were a different matter, I'll try and remember to look up the quote on that from _16-22 Coppergate_, as I found it somewhat amusing.

As for "historical accuracy"- if you're going to use a sewing machine, it doesn't matter what kind of machine you use, it's still not historically correct. Don't let anyone give you grief about using a serger because it's "not period"- the straight stitch Singer they're using isn't period either. Same goes for french seaming- it's not a period technique. It may look nicer than serging or zigzagging, but it's still a Victorian sewing technique.

Since time is a factor, my advice is to use the serger or straight stitch/zigzag combo to construct and clean finish the seams that don't show, and do any stitching that does show by hand. Your friends will be impressed because they'll assume if the stitching that shows is hand done, the rest is too.

My 2¢

As for "historical accuracy"- if you're going to use a sewing machine, it doesn't matter what kind of machine you use, it's still not historically correct. Don't let anyone give you grief about using a serger because it's "not period"- the straight stitch Singer they're using isn't period either. Same goes for french seaming- it's not a period technique. It may look nicer than serging or zigzagging, but it's still a Victorian sewing technique.

Since time is a factor, my advice is to use the serger or straight stitch/zigzag combo to construct and clean finish the seams that don't show, and do any stitching that does show by hand. Your friends will be impressed because they'll assume if the stitching that shows is hand done, the rest is too.

My 2¢

I noticed that someone over on the AA suggested Fray Check- DON'T DO IT!

Fray check is an extremely useful substance in some applications, but unless you want all of your seams to feel like sandpaper against your skin, don't use it to seal seams.

The other suggestion was Fray Guard, which doesn't dry as rough and scratchy, but it is like fabric paint and will make the seams stiff and they will lay funny.

If the garment is already constructed, going over the seams with the zig zag will certainly help prevent them from further deterioration. Heck, go over them twice if you have to, once in the middle of the seam and once enclosing the edge.

It should have been mentioned earlier on that your seam allowance should be at least 1/2" when you make up garments, so you have some margin for error if the seam starts ravelling out.

If you're going to be at Pennsic, stop by the booth later in the week when things slow down and I'll be happy to spend some time teaching you period seaming techniques.

quote:

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Originally posted by Ginevra:
It should have been mentioned earlier on that your seam allowance should be at least 1/2" when you make up garments, so you have some margin for error if the seam starts ravelling out.

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quote:

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If you're going to be at Pennsic, stop by the booth later in the week when things slow down and I'll be happy to spend some time teaching you period seaming techniques.

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Damn, how can I pass up an offer like that? Hope to see you there!

"Wool fabrics were stitched in a variety of techniques, sometimes neatly executed, but often rather rough-and-ready. It is difficult to believe that the same hands could have stitched the linens which are all very competently made in a standardized fashion, with flat hems and the reversible flat seam known nowadays as 'run-and-fell'. An essential part of constructing a run-and-fell seam is to press the seam open and then to press the seam wastage to one side - the seam will not hang properly otherwise - and it is likely that the slick-stones were used for this purpose. The contrast between the wool and linen seams may indicate that the manufacture of linen garments was already a specialist craft."

Unfortunately, the description of the garment fragments on which this is based is described in a different volume that I dont have here - AY v17 f5, _Textiles, Cordage, and Raw Fibre from 16-22 Coppergate_, P Walton 1989, and the site has finds from AngloScandinavian to post-Medieval.

Ahwell. I'll try again tonight. Things I've learned so far:

• Woven linen does not stretch as much as double-knit wool (even on the bias)
• When laying a piece out and tracing it, leave more fabric than you think you'll need as a seam allowance - you'll need it.
• You can't run a flat-felled seam on a piece that long on a machine. Or at least, not on my machine.

It took about 4 hours per leg to sew, but I finally got them done. I did flat-felled seams down the back of the leg. The first line of stitching, I did on the machine - that was the fast part.

The rest took much, much longer, but I'm proud of the results. I'm going to cry the first time I pop a thread on these things, but such is life, I suppose.

Now I just need to finish the top and add the toe...4 days 'til I leave...

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Originally posted by Reinhard von Lowenhaupt:
Try using silk thread, you'll tear the cloth before you 'pop a seam'.

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Yes, that would be so much better... :P