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Author Topic: Phoebus and shoes
Rhys
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posted 05-31-2001 03:57 AM     Profile for Rhys   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Someone was kind enough to give me a calendar with images from Le Livre de la chasse. I have been curious about the the shoes that the huntsman in Folio 55 is wearing.
I would guess that the shoes are similar to #106 in D.A. Shoes and Pattens. The enlarged image on the front of the calendar give the impression of an overlap (or wrap) at the ankle.
Does anyone know of another set of shoes along these lines? I realize that I might be misinterpreting the image or it is artistic liscense, but the artist seems to put a realistic perspective into his work.
The brief text for Folio 59 mentions that a hunter should wear "leather leggings" when riding. Do you think that these are leather chausses or a high boot? The image accompaning the text indicates a set of chausses, but it is very hard to tell.
Oh and does anyone know what kind of hat is depicted in Folio 55? It looks like a bonet with elephantitis of the brim, but my understanding is that bonets did not come into fashion until atleast thirty years later.
Thank you.

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All the best,
Rhys


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Fire Stryker
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posted 06-10-2001 08:42 AM     Profile for Fire Stryker   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi Rhys,

you have me at a disadvantage in that I have the "Book of the Hunt" but I do not possess Dress Accessories or Shoes and Pattens. Something I keep trying to remedy.

Perhaps there are some cordwainers on this forum who can help out. Now bumping message to the top.

[bump]

Cheers,
FS

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ad finem fidelis


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Rhys
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posted 06-10-2001 02:44 PM     Profile for Rhys   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi there,
Supposedly the Dress Accessories series from the London Museum is being re-released. I think that shoes and pattens is due to come out this fall. I have only had the chance to barrow this book through interlibrary loan.

[ 06-11-2001: Message edited by: Rhys ]

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All the best,
Rhys


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J.K. Vernier
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posted 06-10-2001 07:40 PM     Profile for J.K. Vernier   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi,
I'm trying to find the picture in Gaston Phoebus, but could you clarify a little? I've got the Harvey Miller facsimile of the Hunting Book (Bib. Nat. ms fr. 616, the most commonly reproduced copy of the book), and folio 55r has three figures with a pack of dogs. Is this what you're looking at? Which figure in particular- they all have interesting hats and one of them has unusual shoes.
The MoL shoes and Pattens fig 106 is an ankle shoe which I think would be just the thing for most of the huntsmen on foot in the Hunting Book. The riders wear high soft leather boots (there was a lot of discussion about these on this board a while back - look through the old postings).

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Rhys
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posted 06-11-2001 04:02 AM     Profile for Rhys   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Oops,
The images are taken from the manuscript held in the Pierpont Morgan Library (I can not find a Ms. number). In the write up for the calendar, it suggests that the manuscript was made around 1410 for John the Good of Brittany, then latter owned by Ferdinand and Isabella (as their arms are on the first page).
The image has the caption of "How a huntsman should search in thick coverts".
The huntsman is shown with a white "bloodhound".These two figures (besides trees)are the only things in the image. He is wearing a green coat/robe that extends to his knees. It is lined in red (this is seen because the jacket sleeve is rolled up), and there are four lines of gold(?) embroidery at the hem (the second to last line is a circular design). He has a blue doublet on, and his hose is of two shades of red. His hat is blue and cranberry(?), the shades matching his doublet and one leg of his hose.
(The calendar, A Medieval Year was released by Pomegranate this last winter)
What is confusing about the shoes is that the top part appears to have a closure system that is reminiscent of a modern military desert boot. I have been told that these shoes can be seen in images of people riding horses, but I have not been able to find any yet.
Hopefully this long winded explanation has been helpful. Thank you for your time.

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All the best,
Rhys


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hauptmann
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posted 06-12-2001 05:26 PM       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Rhys,

If you can post the image on this page, I will cross reference with the shoes and pattens info. I have all the MoL books.

The Livre de la Chasse I have is also the one from the BN in France. I don't have any plates from the Pierpont MS, so maybe you can help us out.

Fol. 87 in the BN MS shows closures which might resemble what you're mentioning, and they're pretty clearly hooks and eyes. Maybe they're the same as in your picture.


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Rhys
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posted 06-13-2001 04:56 PM     Profile for Rhys   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi Jeff,
I am a little confused in trying to upload the image. So I went out and created a "cookie cutter" web page.
Here is the link
http://homepages.about.com/rhysmoore/theconflictofcoherency/id2.html

Hopefully this will work!
(which it does) It is the first image on the left.

[ 06-13-2001: Message edited by: Rhys ]

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All the best,
Rhys


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hauptmann
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posted 06-13-2001 06:45 PM       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
It's my guess that what you're seeing is likely a fold-over instep (like on thigh high riding boots) perhaps closed with a strap and buckle. The illustration is not very clear on the web, so it's difficult to make a sure determination. I don't think there are any examples of this type of closure in the MoL book. Most of those are a cut instep with a stitched-in tongue which underlaps.

I'm not familiar with military desert boots, so I couldn't say if they're similar to this one.


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Rhys
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posted 06-13-2001 09:38 PM     Profile for Rhys   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Jeff,
Thank you for your input! That does sound like a viable technique for the way the ankle closure is depicted.
Would you happen to have an idea about his hat?

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All the best,
Rhys


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J.K. Vernier
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posted 06-15-2001 05:33 PM     Profile for J.K. Vernier   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Thanks for posting the link to your page. I haven't seen much of that manuscript, and it looks to be very high quality - maybe the same workshop as the ms. in Paris.

The hat is certainly strange. I've looked at a lot of pictures from that time period, and I can't think of another example similar to this. The Duc de Berry's fur hat is the closest thing I can think of, structurally (see the Tres Riches Heures, January calendar page). I'll keep looking and let you know if I see anything. It certainly is not a common type of hat, though.

JKV


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Rhys
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posted 06-16-2001 01:56 AM     Profile for Rhys   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi J.K.
The Morgan manuscript apparently was produced in the same workshop as the Paris manuscript.
I can think of a couple of possibilities for the hat, but it does not "seem" right.

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All the best,
Rhys


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pilgrim
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posted 06-18-2001 12:44 PM     Profile for pilgrim   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Rhys, check out the photos of medieval shoes from the Bata museum: http://www.medievallife.com/Pages/Bata_Shoe_Museum1.htm
The next-to-last shoe on this page appears to have a strap running across the vamp. I posted a question about this on the medeival-leather list, but nobody seems to have a definitive answer.
My guess is that this shoe and the one in Le Livre de Chasse have a strap that passes over the vamp in order to improve the fit. Possibly this would help keep your boot from slipping, particularly in muddy ground. The strap appears to be sewn into the upper/sole seam on one side, but how it attaches on the other end is still a mystery.

Cheers,
Colin


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Rhys
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posted 06-18-2001 01:59 PM     Profile for Rhys   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi Colin,
That does look like it. There "appear" to be some differences, but this is an artistic depiction.
The first image on the left side of the second row also bears some resemblance to the shoe in my question.
Thank you for the link!

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All the best,
Rhys


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Phillipe de Pamiers
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posted 06-18-2001 02:07 PM     Profile for Phillipe de Pamiers   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Does any one know the date and recovery location fot the shoes in the Bata Museum site that Pilgrim mentions?
http://www.medievallife.com/Pages/Bata_Shoe_Museum1.htm

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Phillipe de Pamiers


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Ned
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posted 06-18-2001 04:09 PM     Profile for Ned     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I like the boots on the mounted guy. I made a pair similar using the pattern on the "medieval shoes" site. My heel tends to slide off the soul and ride up the shaft a bit when I walk in them, but otherwise they are really comfortable footwear.

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Quid Corone


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Rhys
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posted 06-18-2001 06:22 PM     Profile for Rhys   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I'm sorry Ned,
I am confused as to which image you are refering to.

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All the best,
Rhys


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Ned
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posted 06-19-2001 06:48 PM     Profile for Ned     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Rhys...on your cookie cutter web page you posted above. The guy in the lower left pic on the horse. I made a pair of similar boots. Actually....look at my profile. In the pic in there I'm wearing the boots I made.

[ 06-19-2001: Message edited by: Ned ]

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Quid Corone


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Rhys
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posted 06-19-2001 08:43 PM     Profile for Rhys   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi Ned,
A-ha! Those will be (hopefully) the third pair that I will make, once I gather all my tools.
Out of curiousity, how did you make the leg "sleeve"?

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All the best,
Rhys


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Ned
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posted 06-20-2001 12:37 PM     Profile for Ned     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
It's a very easy pattern Rhys. It just takes a lot of leather. Here is the link on the website to the pattern I used: Thigh High fold-over boot Once you look at the pattern you'll see how it all comes together. Master Hedgecock sells a boot like this as well and it may help you see how it all fits together to go to historic enterprises website and look at the finished product.

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Quid Corone


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Gwen
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posted 06-20-2001 02:39 PM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hey guys-

Rather than go to our website and copy Jeff's interpretation of a medieval boot, why don't you start with Marc Carlson's pattern and look at period paintings of thigh high boots as a reference?

As a rule, it's always better to go to an original source for info than to copy a copy.

Gwen


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Rhys
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posted 06-20-2001 03:29 PM     Profile for Rhys   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi Ginevra,
That is what I was planning on doing. The biggest problem is that what I have been able to find (mostly Rene d'Anjou) gives me the impression that the boot is form fitting with no buckles.
However, the european Company of St. George and the boots on your site have buckles. This tells me that I have to find more sources.

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All the best,
Rhys


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hauptmann
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posted 06-20-2001 05:28 PM       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Rhys,

I make the boots two ways, with buckles and a hook and eye on the instep, or with no closure. The latter relies on spur straps to keep the foldover down.

The reason I offer them both ways is this:

Rene's "Livre de Tournois" and the "Book of Love" shows the fold over held down only by the spur straps. I have only found scant evidence (mostly in allegorical Flemish paintings) of boots with buckles, so this does not seem typical, though it was probably done. I also think buckles were probably used late in the 15th century because you see them and hook closures in Gaston Phoebus' hunting illos from earlier in the 15th century, only slightly earlier than my replicas are geared for.

I figure that most wearers of my boots will not wear spurs (though if they're wearing riding boots at all, they SHOULD be wearing spurs with them), and the fold over is mighty inconvenient without any closure at all. This gives wearers the option of not having to purchase replica spurs, though if you're buying riding boots you should pop for the spurs too...

So....

There is very strong evidence for the foldover and reasonable evidence, though less conclusive, for closures on foldovers.

I hope that clears things up a bit.

[ 06-20-2001: Message edited by: hauptmann ]


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Ned
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posted 06-20-2001 07:15 PM     Profile for Ned     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
When I cited HE as a possible site to get a look at a good looking boot I was paying you the highest compliment. When I look at a period source such as a painting, woodcut etc, then look at your stuff it's like looking at the same thing. That's why I recommended that Rhys take a look at your stuff. Hope I didn't offend you.

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Quid Corone


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Gwen
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posted 06-20-2001 08:26 PM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I'm not offended at all Ned. I know you meant your comment as a compliment, and I'm glad you think so highly of our (HE's) stuff.

I said what I said because our policy is always to direct modern artisans to consult a primary source instead of a modern reconstruction. Although I appreciate your intentions, it would be hypocritical for us to say "In most cases look at an original...unless you wanted to use our stuff as a source."

I think Jeff's boots look like the ones in Rene' and that they rock the free world, but then again I'm biased.

Gwen


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Rhys
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posted 06-22-2001 01:14 PM     Profile for Rhys   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Jeff,
Thank you for the explanation.It cleared up (for me) whether hook and eyes were used.
Ned and Genivra,
H.E. is a great site. I am sure that the boots do rock, but since I don't have a pair, I will reserve finally judgement.

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All the best,
Rhys


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