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Author Topic: Linen hoods?
hauptfrau
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posted 02-16-2001 01:47 AM     Profile for hauptfrau     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I'd like some input here, please.

I am of the current opinion that hoods are made of wool because their purpose is to keep your head warm.

Lately, I have had several people ask for hoods made of linen. One of these folks is a member of the Red Co., who says he likes a linen hood because he can hide from the sun better in a hood, and that the hood absorbs sweat better.

Hmmmm.....so now I'm wondering- is there any factual evidence to point to hoods being made of non-wool fibres? It *seems* like hoods should be made of wool, but maybe they weren't always. I'm certainly willing to change my position if there is substantiating evidence to the contrary!

Any thoughts or references?

Gwen


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Anne-Marie
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posted 02-16-2001 02:31 AM     Profile for Anne-Marie   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
there is some thought that the womens flemish hood is linen (dunno if I agree, but there you go).

as for the rest, a linen hood will not drape correctly to look like anything in the pictures. Also, check your Hersoiufokskjs dig book . arent all the extant examples wool?

if the purpose is to shield his face from the sun, wear a sun hat. If he wants to soak up sweat, wear a coif under your sun hat. More period, according to my research, not to mention cooler (you dont have fabric covering your shoulders) and less expensive!

just my opinion....
--AM


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Fire Stryker
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posted 02-16-2001 05:30 AM     Profile for Fire Stryker   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I think AM is right.

I've seen a lot of artwork from our time and a little after that depicts men and women wearing sunhats (strawhat), usually laborers in the field. However, I have seen at least one painitng, I believe it is by Antonio Pisano, also known as Pisanello -- DANG! I can't find the book. I am pretty sure it is the Osprey's Men-at-Arms Series:144 Armies of Medieval Burgundy 1364-1477.

The image is of an Italian with maille sleeves (St. George, I think) and a big sun hat. I think Bob posted this image before in regard to maille sleeves.

I always thought the hoods were to keep warm in the fall/winter, but not really meant for summer use.

Sorry I realize it doesn't answer the question, but offers a counter...

[This message has been edited by Fire Stryker (edited 02-16-2001).]


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Jeff Johnson
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posted 02-16-2001 08:53 AM     Profile for Jeff Johnson   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I think I know the Image you are thinking of. I recall an etching of Italian fellow in plate, wearing what the caption calls a Gonfannella (sp.) cape and a very wide straw hat.

I recall it being of a real person & not a saint, so the credibility of the image is a notch higher than allegorical artwork. But maybe it's just the Italian nobles who'd wear such big straw hats?

I'd think the straw hat would be better sun protection than a hood, and generally cooler.

[This message has been edited by JeffJ (edited 02-16-2001).]


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Fire Stryker
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posted 02-16-2001 09:46 AM     Profile for Fire Stryker   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
JeffJ, Thanks for the info. That is the fellow I am talking about. I still can't find my book.

I don't think it would be just Italian nobility that would wear that type of hat. Then again, I could be wrong as I haven't seen any French nobility wearing such a hat, but I have seen plenty of images of French peasants during the spring and summer months wearing that type of hat.

In the 19th c. Southern plantation owners wore them (straw boaters?) in the fields. People still wear them today in warm sunny climates, though the brim is not quite so wide. They give good protection and are pretty well ventilated.

Going back to the painting, I have to say one thing though, that even if it were an allegorical work, the person depicted isn't wearing anything outlandish. If it were a Bosche (spelling), I would be concerned, no one should have to play a musical instrument that way.

Still no linen hood info though. Gwen, do you think that it might be a question that the Co. of Saint George would answer?


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Brenna
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posted 02-16-2001 10:01 AM     Profile for Brenna   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Panama, that's the term you're looking for Southern planter's hat. A very fine woven straw hat with a broad curving brim and brim edges that turn up.

A boater is also of straw but of much different design. Smaller brim, no curve, no turned up edges on the brim, etc. (Much less style too, but then I'm kind of born into that opinion...)

Brenna


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hauptfrau
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posted 02-16-2001 11:35 AM     Profile for hauptfrau     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Well, thanks for the input, and I'll look forward to whatever anyone else can contribute. Looks like the linen hood is a no-go (at least for now) so I don't have to worry about getting them into production. Oh darn.

Now about my guy (who is lurking, I'm quite sure.... )

He says he can't do coifs because he keep losing them-- maybe I need to get him those mitten keepers with the clips on the ends. You know, the ones your mother used to use on you when you were a kid, that one end clips to the cuff of your snowsuit and the other to the mitten? Maybe I could clip one end to his coif and the other to his ear. Then he couldn't lose it, right? Maybe if I implant a big SNAP in the top of his head, I could just SNAP a coif on, and noone would see it!

I know the painting you're thinking of, with the big straw hat. Not so sure I'm willing to go that route. A straw hat would seem sort of out of place in "England" in April. Besides, if we were at a faire, he'd look like every other geek with a bad hat. Might bring the whole effect down.

Asking him to wear a wool hat is pretty stupid, since the problem is he dies in the heat to begin with (gee, this is starting to sound like 20 quesations/"guess the soldier"). Putting a wool hat on an already overheated head just doesn't make sense to me somehow.

I'm thinking (at least for the moment) that aproperly made/patterned linen hood is less screamingly OOP than any of the other options, so I'll allow him to continue to wear it.

As for asking CoSG, if anyone is still in contact with them, feel free to ask, as I'm no longer in touch with anyone over there.

Gwen


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Anne-Marie
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posted 02-16-2001 11:56 AM     Profile for Anne-Marie   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
hey from Anne-Marie

on the subject of keeping heads cool....

I still feel a linen hood, with attatched mantle will be WAY warmer than a simple coif, especially if the hood is a color other than white (which it should be).

You stay cool when the heat generated by your head can LEAVE. a simple white linen coif does little to impede that, especially when soaked in cold water (ahhhh.....).

The hood with mantle will obscure heat loss from the head, as well as the back of the neck and shoulders, much in the same way as my linen fichu keeps me warm in cold weather.

I have very dark hair, and lots of it. I used to ALWAYS get overheated if there was any sun at all, even when it was only about 70o out. See, my hair would act like a big solar panel as well as insulating so the heat couldnt leave.

I started wearing a piece of white fabric on my head (an attractively arranged white dishtowel to start, then I moved to white linen which was even better)and lo and behold, no more overheating. A colored hood, even linen, will be lots warmer than a white one.

Sew the coif into the sunhat. A big sunhat is harder to lose than a coif. Also, coifs are simple enough that he can make lots of them. No matter how many he loses, eventually the universe will be full of coifs and there will always be one at hand (this theory also works with pens, or so I am attempting to prove at work ) its called saturation....

seriously, I really think a coif/sunhat combo will not only be more appropriate according to the documentation, it will also do a better job of keeping him cool and shaded.

just my opinion,
--AM


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hauptfrau
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posted 02-16-2001 02:01 PM     Profile for hauptfrau     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
This is off track, but why do SCA people keep asking me if I make linen hoods? No reenactors ask me about them, just SCA people (with the single exception of my mole friend cited above). Is this an SCA fashion I missed? I get so many inquiries I was beginning to think some new evidence had popped up and I had missed the boat.

BTW AM, all the hoods at Herjolfsnes were wool, and so was the Bocksten hood. However, there were no linen remains at all (there never are) so lack of evidence is not proof that linen hoods were never worn. I don't believe they were, but I don't claim to know everything, either!

Gwen


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AnnaRidley
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posted 02-16-2001 04:43 PM     Profile for AnnaRidley   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I am thinking of a number of images where clues indicate that it is during warm weather yet folks are still wearing hoods, the harvest scenes from the tres riches heures, hunting scenes from the Gaston Phoebus book ( http://www.bnf.fr/enluminures/images/jpeg/i5_0045.jpg ), images of pesants using hoods to shoo away birds... There are a lot of other types of hats being worn too but I'm still thinking that hoods were not an exclusively cold weather garment.

I have made a number of linen hoods for James. My reasons for doing so include: he has a big head (25" crown) so it's really hard to find a hat that fits, he has a receeding hairline and doesn't like sunburn or sunscreen in his hair, we live in the south and it's really hot in the summer, he likes something that protects from the heat, any time we've tried a coif he's felt really self concious because they tend to perch on his head or emphasize the size of his forehead.

When it's hot James tends to wear his hoods upside down in the chaperone form, in this manner they protect his ears and neck as well. He might get more relief from just wearing a simple coif but he likes the hoods. The main issue of drape with the linen hoods that I have is the hem. With wool hoods the bottom edge can be cut into dags that relieves the stresses of the edge, but a rolled hem on a linen edge has a stiffness that is hard to deal with.

I'm not entirely sure that a lack of surviving hoods in linen can be taken as a proof that hoods were only made of wool since the survivabilty of linen is so incredibly low. But I also understand the argument of why would you want a linen hood. My experience is that when it's hot making sure that I am covered head to toe is the best way to keep cool. If I wear a low neck line or short sleeves I get baked, but if I wear a single layer long sleeved linen dress and a light weight veil or mantle I'm much better off. For me it's not the matter of keeping heat in, it's the matter of keeping the sun off.

Okay, I'm rambling again
Mitake.


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Brenna
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posted 02-16-2001 04:52 PM     Profile for Brenna   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Educate them, chances are the people asking you don't know any better. Also make darn sure the people asking know the difference between a coif and a hood. I'm ashamed to say it but it's true.

I'm an SCA person myself but I do actually try to do things right for myself and household. However, a lot of darn people in that group would be better off in LARP!

Brenna


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Bob Hurley
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posted 02-16-2001 06:21 PM     Profile for Bob Hurley     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by hauptfrau:
This is off track, but why do SCA people keep asking me if I make linen hoods?

Probably because many of us don't know better. Some don't care. And most get too hot. Many of our events in the South feature temps in the 90s with near 100% humidity, and most of the fighting fields are in the direct sun.

I find my wool hosen fairly comfortable due to the openess of the weave. I'm going to try the linen ones this season to see if they're even better, though.

Would fashion in (1360s) Outremer and southward/eastward have offered something more comfortable? Gaston is on his way with King Pierre to reconquer Alexandria, how would that affect his choices in clothing?

[This message has been edited by Bob Hurley (edited 02-16-2001).]


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Fire Stryker
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posted 02-19-2001 06:49 AM     Profile for Fire Stryker   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
quote:
I recall it being of a real person & not a saint, so the credibility of the image is a notch higher than allegorical artwork.

FYI- I found the book I was looking for and the painting I cited is of St. George.


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Jeff Johnson
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posted 02-19-2001 10:15 AM     Profile for Jeff Johnson   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Yup, I mis-remembered. And the cape was called a "giornea".

I could never see the practicality of that cape. I'd think the pauldrons would snag it frequently.

[This message has been edited by JeffJ (edited 02-19-2001).]


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