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Author Topic: those v-neck dresses (~1470), patterns for
Nikki
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posted 01-12-2001 02:34 PM     Profile for Nikki   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Has anyone tried making one of those upper-class mid/late 15th century deep v-neck collared dresses, like the woman in the foreground is wearing in: http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/c/christus/eligius.jpg (petrus christus, 1449)?

Is there any info out there on the actual cut/pattern for these things? I'm actually asking because one of my housemates is thinking of making one for a non-strict event, where accuracy is not a big issue, but she'd like to make it as accurately as possible. Barring any spectacular documentation, tho, some method that results in a dress that *looks* right is perfectly acceptable. Anyone tried these things before? Most of the patterns I've seen for these have a separate bodice attached to a pleated skirt - and I'm pretty sure that isn't the historical method. But then, I've never really looked into this type of dress before.


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Brenna
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posted 01-12-2001 05:55 PM     Profile for Brenna   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I simply can't begin to fathom the design, my expertise area of clothing is MUCH later. (I'm an English Civil War type person...)

But I have to say what a luscious brocade for a dress! Are those pomegranets? I'd love to get my hands on some of that fabric!

Brenna


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Fire Stryker
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posted 01-12-2001 06:54 PM     Profile for Fire Stryker   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Nikki, I sent you an e-mail.

This is a gown that Gwen made for me for the 1998 Richard III AGM. It has a v-neckline though not like the one in the image that Nikki supplied.

Gwen correct me if I am wrong, but I believe this particular dress qualifies as "historically inspired", doesn't it?

Jenn

[This message has been edited by Fire Stryker (edited 01-12-2001).]


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Seigneur de Leon
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posted 01-12-2001 07:56 PM     Profile for Seigneur de Leon   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Looks beautiful!!!

------------------
VERITAS IN INTIMO
VIRES IN LACERTU
SIMPLICITAS IN EXPRESSO


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hauptfrau
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posted 01-13-2001 02:57 AM     Profile for hauptfrau     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Boy, I haven't seen a picture of that gown in a while. That was some great brocade.

Jenn, the next time you wear that gown, try to tuck the bottom of the collar *under* the belt. I think I'd like that better than over top. Also, don't tuck the veil under the lappet, wear it over top. The veil should come down almost to your eyebrows. I can't believe you can keep that hennin on with such short hair! It must be balanced just perfectly. And to think I did that from 3,000 miles away from measurements. Wow.

Anyway, there's a couple of places to look for patterns for gowns like this:

Nikki, if your friend just wants a costume, Hill & Bucknell's "The Evolution of Fashion" has a pattern that will work. I don't think it's the best pattern, but it will work. I would recommend drafting the bodice pattern but 1) cut it with a shoulder seam instead of all in one piece. The way they have it drafted in the book the bodice back and neck seam winds up being on the bias, and it would be difficult for the average sewer to keep it from stretching out of shape. Draft the pattern then cut it apart at the shoulder and add seam allowance. Rotate the back around so it's on the straight like the front. 2) Bring the shoulder up. They have it drafted way off the shoulder and it looks weird.

Another source would be Jean Hunnisett's "Period Costume for Stage & Screen - Patterns for women's dress, Medieval-1500". This is a fabulous book with a lot of great patterns and info. Jean Hunnisett did all the costumes for "Elizabeth R", and she's a bit of a period-costume legend, and one of my idols. It would be hard to go wrong with her patterns, but they are intended for professionals, they are not beginner patterns.

Hope this helps!

Gwen


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Fire Stryker
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posted 01-13-2001 10:10 AM     Profile for Fire Stryker   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Actually, *chuckle* given my natural "configuration" the fur wouldn't tuck under the belt. LOL! Also, the veil is not tucked under the lappets, it is just draped.

Thanks for the pointers though, I will remember to bring the veil lower. I also need to get another piece of silk to go over my shoulders. Modesty don't cha' know.

Live and learn.


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hauptfrau
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posted 01-13-2001 07:12 PM     Profile for hauptfrau     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I looked at the picture again and can see that the veil isn't tucked under, I guess I missed that last night.

You're right about the fichu over your shoulders. Next time I go to LA I'll grab a 1/2 yard of silk for you. You'll need to have Bob make you a couple of dressing pins to keep everything in place.

Do you think a minimizer bra would help with your "configuration" problems (as they relate to this dress)?

Gwen


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Fire Stryker
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posted 01-13-2001 07:27 PM     Profile for Fire Stryker   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I was wearing one! LOL
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hauptfrau
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posted 01-14-2001 12:22 AM     Profile for hauptfrau     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I was wearing one!

Wow.

Ok, now for Plan B..... ;-)

Gwen


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