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Author Topic: Doublet?
Greyholt
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posted 12-28-2000 03:08 AM     Profile for Greyholt   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi, everybody. Thanks for all the knowledgeable replies you've given me so far.

A question... What is this guy wearing under his coat? If it's some form of doublet, how is it put on? Or is it just an artist's interpretation?
http://sites.netscape.net/tkekona/Doublet.jpg

Here's a second pic http://sites.netscape.net/tkekona/Doublet2.jpg


I'm presently working on some 15thc. gear and any light you could shed on this matter would help greatly!

Thanks...........Greyholt


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Fire Stryker
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posted 12-28-2000 05:14 AM     Profile for Fire Stryker   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hmmmm... it looks to have a peplum which would have me think it was a doublet rather than a shirt, but I don't see any closures or seams on the front.

Gwen?

[This message has been edited by Fire Stryker (edited 12-28-2000).]


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hauptfrau
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posted 12-28-2000 11:05 AM     Profile for hauptfrau     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Here's my 2d-

The Burgundians wear some form of doublet arrangement that laces across an undergarment and leaves the front open. Dave Key and I have talked about it, but I don't know that anyone has a clear picture of what exactly is going on with it.

My guess is that this is either a pourpoint, some form of "under doublet" or an artist's interpretation.

In any case, it's not "ordinary" as far as I can tell, and you may want to replicate something a bit more main-stream, unless you can find more pictures/information. You're going to have to indulge in some serious speculation to replicate that picture, which will take you pretty far out on a limb.

But that's just my opinion!

Gwen


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Brenna
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posted 12-29-2000 09:25 AM     Profile for Brenna   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
There is documentation of pourpoints and jupons (sp?) that fastened up the back. (Many Elizabethan doublets did that also) It maybe that's what you are looking at, or the artist just left out the front fastenings because he was concentrating on more "important aspects" of the picture.

Brenna


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hauptfrau
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posted 12-29-2000 12:02 PM     Profile for hauptfrau     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
There is documentation of pourpoints and jupons (sp?) that fastened up the back.

Really?? I'd love to hear more!

I'm familiar with the Elizabethan stuff, but that's 100+ years later and I didn't know back fastening applied that early. What documentation are you referring to for 15th C?

Gwen


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Brenna
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posted 12-29-2000 12:51 PM     Profile for Brenna   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Again, dern it, I'm at work. Let's see, off the top of my head there was some stuff put out by The Victoria and Albert Museum and the late great Janet Arnold referenced it in one of her Elizabethan period books too, I believe. Am I thinking of "Cut my Cote"???
Hmmm, hopefully I get home to check it out soon.
Brenna

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hauptfrau
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posted 12-29-2000 02:04 PM     Profile for hauptfrau     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
It's not in "Cut my Cote", and again, Arnold is Elizabethan. I'm looking for a reference contemporary with the picture under discussion.

Gwen


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Brenna
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posted 12-29-2000 03:38 PM     Profile for Brenna   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Yes, I know Arnold is primarily Elizabethan thought she did publish a number of books. What I'm remembering is that she referenced an earlier source in one of her books, but I'm still at work...
Brenna

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Jamie & Christine
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posted 12-31-2000 11:14 AM     Profile for Jamie & Christine   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Folks,
It's possible that this is a doublet that fastens at the side of a plackard. This was a common fastening style for later in the 15th c. A date on the reference might be helpful.
You have to be careful looking at illustrations as if they're photos. I have seen seen many reference drawings by Durer that he made lots of changes to for the final engraving or painting. Also many artists of the period tended to ignore details like seams and closures.
Just my two cents.
Jamie

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hauptfrau
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posted 12-31-2000 12:33 PM     Profile for hauptfrau     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Style underwent major changes about 1485 and again about 1500. Jamie, you're part of the first wave and what everyone thinks of as "Tudor" is the second. The next stages are more evolutionary, the slimming of the doublet body and shortening of the skirts into the "Elizabethan" doublet about 1560, then the gradual lenthening of the skirts and thinkening of the body into the "Cavalier" styles of the 1620.

The most famous reference for the back-fastening doublet is the embroidered and quilted leather fencing coat held by the met in NY. I just looked at it again when I was there in August, and I can vouch for the fact that it laces up the back. How frequently doublets were fastened that way in the grand scheme of things is anyone's guess.

I agree completely about artists and their propensity to get the details wrong. However, I don't want to completely rule out the idea that this is one of those weird Burgundian under-doublet things that I can't figure out. The style looks to be right at 1470, putting it in the correct time for that arrangement. Since he's wearing a coat, perhaps the doublet layer was discarded in favor of the coat.

I don't have access to the scanner today since I'm at home, but maybe if I have time tomorrow I'll see about scanning in some pictures of the arrangement I'm talking about.

Gwen


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Fire Stryker
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posted 12-31-2000 01:17 PM     Profile for Fire Stryker   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Not all artists got the details wrong. I would agree that many were more "detail" oriented than others.

Getting a date and a location for the image would be good in helping narrow the style down a bit.


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Greyholt
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posted 12-31-2000 10:40 PM     Profile for Greyholt   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi! Thanks everyone for posting your thoughts; I really appreciate it. Sorry to have not responded sooner, I've been pretty busy lately... I'm presently attempting to quickly throw together a circa 15th c. Irish get-up for a 12th Night fest next weekend! Should be interesting...

Anyway, the pic is from Rene d' Anjou's Treatice on Tournaments, from about 1455-1460. The dude in question is apparently hanging out with the Duke of Bourbon. That's all I can find at this time, as I'm about to drink myself silly celebrating the new millennium!

Hope that helps any...
Happy New Year everyone, and, as always, thanks! .........Greyholt


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