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Author Topic: Clothing hooks
Nikki
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posted 06-19-2000 02:24 PM     Profile for Nikki   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I have been trying to find examples of hook-and-eye style clothing hooks in archaeology books for several months, and haven't had any luck. The best evidence I can find for these hooks is actually from ebay! There is usually (and I believe there is at least one up for auction right now, try searching for "medieval hook", or "BnB", someone who sells a lot of them) at least one example of a 15th/16th cent hook for auction, supposedly dredged up from a river or something, and auctioned with optional 'certificate of authenticity'. I want to know why if such items are common enough to be sold for around $10 (US) on ebay, I can't find any reference or documentation for them in books.

Has anyone else seen these? In books? In a store? In anything? Reproductions for sale? The ones on ebay are usually only one part of the hook, but I think I have seen complete sets, with both the 'hook' and the 'eye' sections, for sale.

-nikki


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hauptfrau
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posted 06-19-2000 03:07 PM     Profile for hauptfrau     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I have pages of hooks and eyes photocopied from an archaeology book. Unfortunately, the book is in German; the woman who made the copies for me does not speak German, so when she made the copies she copied the incorrect text for the items. Really, all I have are these pages of images from an unknown book, with minimal data identifying the pieces as having come from an unstratified 12-15th C. deposit. I'm no longer in contact with her, so I can't even find out the name of the book at this point.

If it's any help, there were lots in that book and they look just like the modern ones.

Maybe Mark can help? He seems to have info on all this kind of stuff-

Gwen


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hauptmann
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posted 06-19-2000 05:16 PM     Profile for hauptmann     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Nikki,

The examples of hook fastenings you see on ebay from "BnB" are most likely from the 16th century or later. I have purchased many items from Birgit, and have gotten some great deals. The thing is, you have to know what you're looking at, because she often has incorrect dating or attribution.

Just because someone found it in the dirt at a 15th c. castle in England or Germany, doesn't make it 15th century. There are 500 years of deposits at those sites since the 15th c., and many of the detector people who find things don't know specifically what they're looking at.

------------------
Cheers,

Jeffrey


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Nikki
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posted 06-20-2000 10:04 AM     Profile for Nikki   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hmmm....I think i'll have to spend an afternoon hunting thru the stacks in the archaeology section at Widener. I've got a catalog with some that are like 17th-18th cent repros, look like the ones you can buy from the fabric store today, except for not being bright and shiny or plastic-coated, maybe they would be acceptable. Does the xerox page have any indication of sizes?

I wonder why there aren't any in _Dress Accessories_.....

-nikki


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Jamie & Christine
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posted 06-22-2000 10:58 AM     Profile for Jamie & Christine   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Nikki,

I have seen several examples of hook/eye closures on clothing in paintings fron the mid 15th to the early 16th cent.s. They are virtually identical to those commercially available today. If you like I could scan a couple for you.

Cheers,
Jamie


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Mike T
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posted 07-11-2000 11:19 PM     Profile for Mike T   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi, All. The earliest I have seen hook-and-eye closures was Brueghel's Shepherd. I would also be interested in seeing any other early docs. on the subject. I have a friend that reproduces 17th cent. versions, some of which are pretty heavy duty, in brass wire. Mike T.
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Buran
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posted 07-18-2000 02:58 PM     Profile for Buran   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Here is the Vikings (NFPS) on "hooked tags": http://www.the-viking-experience.co.uk/hookedtag.html
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hauptfrau
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posted 07-18-2000 10:32 PM     Profile for hauptfrau     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Wow, that Viking thing is pretty cool. Like I usually say, if you're lucky, you learn something new every day... I guess this has been a good day for me!

As an aside, I remembered something about hook and eye fastenings-

Janet Arnold- "Patterns of Fashion- c1560-1620

Page 16, figure 89 is of hook and eye fastening on doublet of Svante Sture, c1567

Page 19, figure 114 shows hook portion of leather doublet fastening, c1560

Page 20, figure 118 is detail of hook in doublet, c1560

Page 24, figures 151-2, metal eye from satin doublet, c1605-10

Page 39, figure 273, hook/eye in hem of a gown, c1600-10

Page 39, figure 278, sleeve hooks, c1580-1600

Page 51, figures 368/9, Hook & eye fastenings in front of woman's jacket c1610-15.

Page 102, figures 41B/C, hook and eye fastening on pair of bodies worn by Eleanora of Todedo in her grave, c1562.

Interestingly enough, all of these have the exact same shape as modern hooks and eyes.

Based on what I saw in the archaeology book I couldn't read, I'm willing to bet the shape was the same in the 15th C.

Gwen


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Doug Strong
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posted 04-25-2001 01:56 PM     Profile for Doug Strong   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Those hooks are definately 16th century. A fine example of one in use can be seen on Breugels "Peasant Dance" it securing the point of the black pointed shoulder cowl (Which I'm sure has a name I just don't know it) on one of the ladies. It was used without an "eye" the hook end being pushed into the fabric.

--------------------

Doug Strong
doug-strong@comcast.net

http://armourresearchsociety.org

http://talbotsfineaccessories.com
Armour patterns, shoemaking books, reproductions buckles, jewelry and accessories. Historical antiquites and artifacts from every period starting at one dollar ($1)


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hauptmann
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posted 04-25-2001 07:11 PM       Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Doug, you're the resident antiquities guy, what's the deal on 15th C. hook closures? We know they were used, but there don't seem to be any around. Do you know what they look like?

Gwen

Ack 2 of us using the same computer- how do I delete this post and repost it in my name?

[ 04-25-2001: Message edited by: hauptmann ]


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Doug Strong
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posted 04-26-2001 08:44 AM     Profile for Doug Strong   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I've seen several labled as 15th C. but nothing conclusive. I did get one set with this date which looked exactly like modern hook and eye closures except about 10% larger. I am only about 75% convinced of the accuracty of this date though. Plenty of evidence in the 16th century though for what they looked like. They appear in portraits all the time.

--------------------

Doug Strong
doug-strong@comcast.net

http://armourresearchsociety.org

http://talbotsfineaccessories.com
Armour patterns, shoemaking books, reproductions buckles, jewelry and accessories. Historical antiquites and artifacts from every period starting at one dollar ($1)


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Anna Kovacs
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posted 04-26-2001 10:36 AM     Profile for Anna Kovacs   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Greetings,
I was fortunate enough to work in a medieval royal palace in Hungary for five years, and used the excavation materials accumulated from a hundred years' excavations for my scholarly work. We had two or three hook-and-eye pieces big enough to be noticed while digging through debris (NOT an easy task, and dated by the archeologist who carried out the dig to the second half-last third of the 15th c. Exact date, as the palace was re-built and expanded during the second half of the reign of a particular king, from cca. 1460s to the end of the 1480s. One of them had been gilded with gold, and that one is exhibited right now in the palace museum of Visegrad. I shall see whether I can dig up any documentation or ask a favor from my ex-colleagues over there...

Take care,

Anna

--------------------

--Soldiers live. And wonder why--


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Doug Strong
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posted 04-26-2001 10:46 AM     Profile for Doug Strong   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Anna Kovacs:
One of them had been gilded with gold, and that one is exhibited right now in the palace museum of Visegrad.

Can you find pics? or detailed descriptions?

--------------------

Doug Strong
doug-strong@comcast.net

http://armourresearchsociety.org

http://talbotsfineaccessories.com
Armour patterns, shoemaking books, reproductions buckles, jewelry and accessories. Historical antiquites and artifacts from every period starting at one dollar ($1)


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Anna Kovacs
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posted 04-26-2001 05:03 PM     Profile for Anna Kovacs   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Talbot,
that depends on when I can get all my notes shipped from Hungary...I relocated last September, and even with surface shipping the thing is not cheap. I 'll drop a line to my ex-colleague tonight and see whether he can do me a favor. They got the inventory book and one of those thingys is out in an exhibition case, so... it just takes time.

Anna

--------------------

--Soldiers live. And wonder why--


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Johannes
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posted 05-02-2001 01:51 AM     Profile for Johannes   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Talbot:
[B]I've seen several labled as 15th C. but nothing conclusive. B]

The Towton find which is so well documented in the new book Blood Red Roses has a number of clothing hooks just like these from the grave site. I have some of them and was quite pleased to date them a little more. Unfortunately there is no evidence of exactly how or on which piece of clothing they were worn. Some of the artifacts I own show a definite sidedness, the hook end being bent to one side or the other so that after they were put through the material and released they did not pose a hazard to the flesh.

--------------------

Johannes


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AnnaRidley
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posted 05-02-2001 05:37 PM     Profile for AnnaRidley   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Johannes:
The Towton find which is so well documented in the new book Blood Red Roses has a number of clothing hooks just like these from the grave site.

My reading of the caption in for the small finds in that book was that those objects were metal detector finds from the battlefield and not necessarily particuarly associated with the gravesite. As such they would not be dateable by means other than comparing them to know objects. Does anyone else have information on whether those finds were actually part of the gravesite dig?

Mitake.


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Johannes
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posted 05-06-2001 12:33 AM     Profile for Johannes   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by AnnaRidley:
My reading of the caption in for the small finds in that book was that those objects were metal detector finds from the battlefield and not necessarily particuarly associated with the gravesite. As such they would not be dateable by means other than comparing them to know objects.

Mitake.


Seems every time I read this section in the book it comes out different. The pieces ARE detector finds. However, the author explains that they were found by a single conscientious detector who carefully mapped and catalogued his finds, and who proved instrumental in their being able to locate and identify the footprint of the battle site. Using his finds, and the data from his finds off the site in surrounding areas they are fairly confident that the items represented are likely dateable to the battle. They acknowledge that there are some other explanations for the finds and why they are found where they are, but the most likely source of them is battlefield loss. This method of tracking the signature of a battle site is becoming more accepted in archaeological sites as the contributions detectorists can make are better utilized. So, these are not smoking gun, found in the hand of a skeleton who has a plaque commemorating his death at Towton finds, but they are likely traceable to that encounter.

What they do not say is that it could just be wishful thinking on their part. And mine for that matter. They present a decent case for them belonging, and I want them to, so I am willing to go along. Now if I could just figure out what to use them on.

--------------------

Johannes


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Nikki
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posted 01-18-2002 03:26 PM     Profile for Nikki   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
There is a clear illustration of hooks-and-eyes used on this mid-15th painting by [URL=http://www.abcgallery.com/F/fouquet/fouquet14.html
]Fouquet[/URL], if anyone was still looking for hook-and-eye uses.

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gaukler
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posted 01-18-2002 04:50 PM     Profile for gaukler   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Today's mail brought a silver clothing hook, probably 15C, very similar to the hooks in the painting. Now I have to decide whether to sell it or add it to my collection, perhaps as a model for production.
mark

--------------------

mark@medievalwares.com
http://www.medievalwares.com
medieval metalwork and authentic antiquities


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