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Author Topic: A question on patterns
Ned
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Member # 170

posted 05-02-2001 02:38 PM     Profile for Ned     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
In Aaron's thread on LH on a budget several of you recommended patterns out of books you'd found. How does one expand those inky-dinky patterns published small enough to fit in a standard sized book into something proportional and useable??

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Quid Corone


Registered: Apr 2001  |  IP: Logged
Fire Stryker
Admin & Advocatus Diaboli
Member # 2

posted 05-02-2001 02:57 PM     Profile for Fire Stryker   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
We actually tried to do this once. First you must determine if the drawing is "to scale". Once you determine it is, then you can take it to a place like Kinko's. They have reprographic machines that can continually scale it upward until it is usable.

Our experiment failed as we did it backwards, but also discovered that the drawing was not proportional. We haven't tried it since, but you may have better luck than we did.

Hope this helps.

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ad finem fidelis


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Reinhard von Lowenhaupt
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Member # 119

posted 05-02-2001 04:30 PM     Profile for Reinhard von Lowenhaupt   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Best suggestion I can offer with patterns is this: figure out (rough guess) as to where on your body what part of the pattern goes, take a measurement of that area, then write it on the corresponding pattern line (be sure to add about 3/4 inch to each side for seams). After figuring out your measurements and writing them down, draw a pattern out (full size) on some cheap material using the same general shape as the pattern you're working from(MOST WAL-MART STORES HAVE A $1/YD CLOTH TABLE--THIS IS WHAT I USE FOR PATTERNS). Cut out your pattern, and pin it in place. Then, just adjust the pattern in any problem areas (with the pins), then you cut off any excess, or mark where and how much you need to add material. Then, you have a pattern--which you can use again and again. Cloth patterns are so much easier to work with than paper.
Hope this helps.

[ 05-02-2001: Message edited by: Reinhard von Lowenhaupt ]

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Per Mortem Vinco


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AnnaRidley
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Member # 97

posted 05-02-2001 06:55 PM     Profile for AnnaRidley   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
The process that Reinhardt described is known as draping. It is a very good way to get a pattern that fits you, and for me it is much easier than trying to understand how to manage modifying a flat pattern. I do a couple of things differently than Reinhardt so here's my method:

Materials Needed:
- Image of historical pattern
- Tape Measure
- Cheap Fabric (pick something that is similar weight to your fashion fabric i.e. don't pick curtain sheers, we frequently find rolls of really ugly fabric for something like $5 for 15yds at yardsales and fleamarkets)
- Scissors
- Sewing Machine with stitch length set at the longest setting
- Pins
- Sharpie Marker

Steps:
1. Look at your historical pattern and sketch out the shapes of the pieces.
2. Measure your body in the places where it looks like the pattern is fitted and for how long the garment needs to be. For example, for the G63 I measured across the shoulders, around the chest, from the shoulder to the knee, from the point of the shoulder to the wrist going around the elbow, and the circumference of the wrist.
3. Sketch out your pattern pieces on your fabric with the relavent measurements as reference points.
4. Cut out the patterns with 3/4 to 1" allowace around your lines.
5. Sew you pieces together and try the garment on, seams facing out, pinning it closed.
6. Where there is too much fabric pull the seam away and pin it where it fits properly. Mark the new seam line with your Sharpie.
7. Take the garment off and sew the new seam line. Trim the seam to a comfortable seam allowance (1/2" is common), and try the garment back on.
8. Continue doing this until you have the fit you want.
You may find a basic sewing book dealing with fitting to be helpful.
If you have wrinkles you may find that taking in a seam at the shoulder or side is more appropriate.
If you find you have removed too much fabric patch in an extra piece by laying it on top of your too small piece, dont add in another seam.
9. When you are happy with your fit: mark the pattern pieces so that you will know which ones are which; mark across the seams so you will know where the pieces match up; and mark on each piece who the pattern was for, what garment it is for, and the date the pattern was made.
10. Take out the seams with a seam ripper - this is where having a long stitch length will help. And you have a pattern.

-OR- Decide that this is all too much work and buy your garments from Gwen


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Gwen
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Member # 126

posted 05-08-2001 12:28 PM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
A caveat about using fabric patterns:

If the fabric is not completely stable, the pattern will stretch and distort each time it is used, potentially ruining whatever fabric you're cutting. Better to transfer the final pattern to paper or inexpensive non-fusible interfacing, both of which are completely stable and won't distort along the bias.

I buy interfacing in LA for 50¢ per yard, and it makes great patterns, if you don't like paper for some reason.

Gwen


Registered: Feb 2001  |  IP: Logged

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