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Author Topic: Burgundian -'Gippon à mahoitres' - photos
Gwen
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Member # 126

posted 11-11-2004 12:42 AM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi folks-

I finally have some decent pictures of the new doublets. I hope you'll understand if I start a new thread and don't append this to the doublet thread I started 2 weeks ago.

For comparison's sake, here is a photo of Jeff in the custom doublet fitted doublet I made for him to wear at the Armouries joust in August:

here's Jeff in a stock, off the peg size Medium:

You can see that with the exception of the too long sleeves and the too-tight tummy, the fit is nearly identical.

These doublets are designed to be form fitting with a yoke collar that is very high in back and swoops down in the front. The front is open at the throat and comes together at the waist seam. They look best over a shirt with a boat neckline like our "slit neck shirt".

You can find this 'Gippon à mahoitres' on our website in the Men's outerwear section. This doublet is $235 in wool and $255 in a luxury fabric like the ones shown.

I'm currently working on a gown pattern to go over this doublet, and plan to have them available in the Spring.

Thanks for looking!

Gwen
Black Swan Designs


Registered: Feb 2001  |  IP: Logged
Dave Key
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Member # 17

posted 11-24-2004 05:22 AM     Profile for Dave Key   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Gwen,

Nice work.

If you're OK with a couple of comments (and comments not criticisms BTW) ...

Personally I still prefer the 4-quarters cut in one piece for a doublet of this style as I feel it gives a smoother line.

Also I'd consider replacing (or having the option for) the waist-line points with a 'Z' lacing for the stomach, keeping the spacing between it and the single throat point ... a nice touch often seen in the illustrations and rarely seen in reconstructions.

Good work,

Cheers
Dave


Registered: May 2000  |  IP: Logged
Gwen
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Member # 126

posted 11-24-2004 10:36 AM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi Dave!

Thanks for the comments!

I know, I know, it's the old "should there be a waist seam or not?" discussion. I agree not having one can produce a smoother line, depending on the build of the wearer and whether they're available for a custom fitting. I like the seam there because it gives the wearer a bit more strength if they need to nip in the waist, often an issue (Jeff being a prime example!).

I like the Z waist lacing as well, and made Dominic's that way. The way the eyelets are placed on the stock doublet 2 additional eyelets could be worked between the ones that come standard, so the doublet could then be laced with a continuous Z lace. It was the best compromise I could come up with for an off the peg garment.

Thanks for the comments!

Gwen


Registered: Feb 2001  |  IP: Logged

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