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Author Topic: Sewing help please
Hawken
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Member # 818

posted 06-16-2005 06:59 AM     Profile for Hawken     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Although I've had no formal training, I've been sewing garb for myself and others for years; mostly hoods and simple outergarments based on t-tunics. I use to use almost exclusively cotton broadcloths and I never had any issues. However, in an attempt to improve the authenticity of my 14th C. portrayal, I made my last tunic out of 100% linen. I have always left about a 1/2" seam allowance and left the inside edges raw. I would of course hem (or use bias tape on) the neck-hole, cuffs and bottom edge. Well, with linen being a coarser and looser weave, after only a 1/2 dozen or so washings the raw edges have frayed to the point that the seams are coming apart.

So the question is; after sewing two pieces of fabric together with a seam allowance, what should be done to properly finish the edges and keep them from fraying? I apologize if this topic has been discussed here before, but I don't know any of the terminology to search for. Do you simply go over the seam allowance with a zig-zap stitch to help it resist fraying, or is that over simplified? Any assistance or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Sincerely,

Hawken


Registered: Jun 2005  |  IP: Logged
Gwen
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Member # 126

posted 06-16-2005 12:05 PM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi Hawken-

You may find the information on this site useful- http://www.damehelen.com/

The only comment I have is that french seaming is a Victorian sewing technique that shouldn't be used if you're going for accuracy in construction.

This chart of stitches might be helpful: http://www.fiber-images.com/Free_Things/Reference_Charts/handsewing_stitches.htm

Hope that helps!

Gwen


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Hawken
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posted 06-16-2005 02:15 PM     Profile for Hawken     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Thanks "sew" much Gwen Those are great referrences you linked. I should be good to go now.

Hawken


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Nikki
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posted 06-16-2005 02:22 PM     Profile for Nikki   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
_Archaeology of York, vol 17 f11?, Textile Production at 16-22 Coppergate_ says that most linen items were sewn with flat fell seams, while woolens were finished with a variety of different techniques, some quite rough and ready, while the linens were neatly finished. I think they actually called it _run and fell_, but you do a rnuning stitch, trim one of the s.a. down, and double fold the wider seam allowance over it to enclose, then sort of whipstitch the folded allowance down. It is a clean, reversible seam finish that holds up well to washing.
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Gwen
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posted 06-16-2005 03:30 PM     Profile for Gwen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
ou see that technique on linens right up through the Edwardian period. It's the one I use when I make Jeff's shirts and it takes a huge amount of abuse before blowing out.

It's pretty simple and quick to do- I tend to stagger the seams rather than cutting one side down but the effect is the same.

Gwen


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Charlotte
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posted 06-16-2005 04:57 PM     Profile for Charlotte   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hawken:

The links that these ladies sent you are the best way to go, authenticity-wise.

For simplicity sake, running a zig zag on the inside of the seam will stop your garment from fraying in the wash. In some ways, it's just as good as doing a machine flat-fell, because you then don't have a visible machine seam.

Cheers!
Charlotte


Registered: Jun 2004  |  IP: Logged

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