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Author Topic: Maille Without Under Padding---How Historical?
Yeoman
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Member # 164

posted 05-08-2001 05:56 PM     Profile for Yeoman     Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
For a long time, I have been bugged by seeing reenactors wearing maille without padded defenses underneath. Is this practice historical in any way?

I have trouble understanding how a coif or aventail could be effective without a lining of some sort. It is gratifying to see Embleton address this subject in his most recent book, Medieval Military Costume. In fact, I have been planning to make a quilted lining for my aventail for some time.

The same goes for a maille halberk. Will it offer you proper protection without under-padding? Thhen there is the question of over-padding which is also frequently seen. Was over-padding used in conjunction with under-padding?

I'd love to hear your opinions & any evidence you might present.

--------------------

Tim Finkas (aka Henri le Brassey)
The Company of Yeoman Archers
The Historical Forgerie


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montecristo
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posted 06-08-2001 06:26 PM     Profile for montecristo   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
hey Tim,

Lacking any kind of evidence or documentation, I can only back you up on the "highly improbable use of maille armur without some sort of padding under (and sometimes over)" with what IMHO is common sense. Padding was worn *most* of the time because of comfiness. Heres why:

Picture yourself wearing a maille mitten without a cloth/leather glove underneath, i.e. nothing between your skin and the maille. Now, punch the nearest solid object near you. Voila! instant motivation to use padding. Anyone wearing a hauberk in an armed fight will feel all over his body the same pain you felt when punching with the maille glove, whenever something hits his body. A very unpleasant sensation i'll wagger.

Also, in other circumstances like sitting, riding, laying down, walking; i'll imagine (imagine as in: I havent worn armour for so long as to find out for myself....yet) wearing armour without padding is going to be quite painful. Reason which makes me think there was some sort of padding under the maille even if "over-padding" was worn.

It *might* have been for rough personas, or for ppl in a hurry to just put on the padding sans the padding. but as far as i know (not much admitedly) it wasnt a far-sprung custom nor a rewarding one.

Other issues to think of:
-sweat and metal dont mix very well.
-Metal conducts heat very well, in hot/cold climates i'll rather have cloth on me than metal. (for those naked-save-for-a-hauberk-celtic-barbarians)
-Remember arrows with thin, sharp tips? padding might be a good idea when wearing maille
-Also heard from a friend who read somewhere that (ok, no sneers please) that coarse wool padding also served the part of instant-bandages, clogging onto wounds helping stem bloodflow.

well, gotta go. Hope other (sp. the more knowleadgable) folks here speak up on this one.

--------------------

'Freedom' is the free exercise of our habits.
-Robin Bond


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Kent
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posted 06-09-2001 09:57 PM     Profile for Kent     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hello,
I have also been irked by this apparent oversight among some "reenactors". In fact, I understand that the padded garment was the first layer of protection acquired -- often among poorer soldiers, their ONLY layer of defense was a quilted gambeson, or "tunic stuffed with tow" (Funcken). I have also read accounts of how footsoldiers in the crusades (either the 1st or the 3rd) removed their hauberks due to their weight and heat, and found that their "quilted under-tunics" proved to be adequate defences for the harrassing arrows sent from distant archers. These soldiers were descibed as looking like hedge-hogs, walking along with saracen arrows sticking out at all angles from these quilted garments. I believe it may also have been in the Crusades that the idea of wearing a light over-garment began, both to keep the wearer cooler (with white coverings), and to display your affiliation (at some point the different nations more or less standardized the color of their crosses, I think). But I digress. Padding is pretty much necessary...I wonder if they wore it on their legs, under plate defenses in the 13th and later centuries?
--Kent

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Bob Charron
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posted 06-14-2001 08:54 AM     Profile for Bob Charron   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Chretien de Troyes Arthurian cycle doesn't (12th century) doesn't indicate a padded garment beneath the hauberk, but rather a silk tunic.

Padding certainly was worn in other instances, but does not seem to be something we can automatically assume.

The 13th century Speculum Regalae talks about wearing a heavy tunic beneath the hauberk and a quilted garment *over* it.

There are all sorts of variations.

I understand your point with respect to reenactors, but I know there was enough variance to keep it from being a given. All in all I think that we need to consult as many primary sources as possible from the specific time and culture in question before assuming.

On the flip side those who choose not to wear a haubergeon beneath their transitional armor effect me likewise :-)

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Bob Charron


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montecristo
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posted 07-04-2001 12:27 AM     Profile for montecristo   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
twas some time ago, yet, just noted something:

Bob, I agree 100% with you, in that there was a lot of variance in it, and it would be misleading for us to sterotype and assume beforehand things such as wearing under-padding.

yet i quote:

quote:
Originally posted by Bob Charron:
Chretien de Troyes Arthurian cycle doesn't (12th century) doesn't indicate a padded garment beneath the hauberk, but rather a silk tunic.

If by that youre stating that a thin silk tunic the width of a modern silk blouse was worn under the hauberk, without any "bulgy" or "heavy" padding or anything else, i'll beg to disagree on the following grounds.

Wearing your expensive 100% natural silk tunic right under your always-rusting, blood-stained, mud-splattered hauberk, means the tunic wont last long before its reduced to dirty rags (snagging on points in the hauberk being also a problem).
Rather I'll speculate the tunic so mentioned is actually and aketon or some sort of padded garment with a silk lining, with the outer layers of coarser, cheaper materials (protecting the expensive material and mimicking the practice of lining with linen, which like silk, is cooler and more comfortable to wear.)
Naming such garment a "silk tunic" was only a mention of the quality that set it apart from any other tunics or paddings, and identified it as a piece worthy of a king.
Now the benefit of wearing a padding is doubled, not only to protect ones body from blows, but also to protect such rich adornment (reason which also makes unprobable a garment of any kind (and width) with the silk on the outside).

The only other possible scenario i can come up with is that the author consciously omitted any other more common layer of clothing between silk and armour, in order to infer the haste with which the subject armed himself, foregoing the padding.

Nevertheless, my HO about all this, is that certainly there were instances where hauberks were worn without padding of any kind (maybe even over bare skin), but in the 80% of all cases padding was worn. Specially in the circumstances of a Tourney, pas d'armes, behourd, or even battle. I mean, quilted garments were (and still are) of the cheapest/easiest garments to make. If someone could buy/get a hauberk he could assuredly buy/get a gambeson or equivalent.
Now if he chose to forgo it willingly is another matter.

--------------------

'Freedom' is the free exercise of our habits.
-Robin Bond


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jay
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posted 09-16-2001 03:22 PM     Profile for jay     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I believe there are three seperate illustrations in the Mac Bible denoting light shifts only under the hauberk. One is particularly explicit (the stripping of a slain king); there is clearly no additional clothing save the tunic.

The use of silk is not so farfetched; it is very tough, very light, very comfortable, and has reputed surgical benefits when extracting arrows and dealing with wounds.

Hope this helps... jay.


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Seigneur de Leon
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posted 09-16-2001 08:48 PM     Profile for Seigneur de Leon   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
As a "re-enactor" (I use the term loosely here) doing Renn. Faires I have frequently worn my Crusader hauberk over a simple tunic. Once the temperature goes above 90 degrees I'd drop if I didn't. I suppose the same thing might have been true then.
But at the same time, we are wearing "costumes" designed to protect against pulled blows. The one time I blocked a shot with my entire left arm instead of the buckler I was holding, I got a nice 8" bruise. Had he hit me across the arm, I'm sure it would have broken it. Had he used a sharp sword, it would have protected me from a cut by mangling a wider area of tissue, whereas padded it would have been harmless. Better than nothing? Definitely. Better than passing out from the heat? Without a doubt.
Having watched the HACA cutting demonstrations, almost no damage occurred with padding/mail, a great deal with mail alone, and straight through the bone with nothing.

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VERITAS IN INTIMO
VIRES IN LACERTU
SIMPLICITAS IN EXPRESSO


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J.K. Vernier
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posted 09-17-2001 02:24 AM     Profile for J.K. Vernier   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
What Jay mentioned about the Maciejowski Bible struck me as especially telling because that manuscript is notable for its careful illustrations of padded aketons and coifs. Figures armed with mail and with their mail hoods thrown back wear quilted coifs on their heads, but dead bodies being stripped of their hauberks do indeed seem to wear only their shirts. As counterintuitive as this seems, I consider this source hard to disregard.
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montecristo
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posted 10-04-2001 04:36 PM     Profile for montecristo   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Seigneur: You certainly have a point there. Wish there was some source pointing out one of such instances when padding was foregone.

C.

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'Freedom' is the free exercise of our habits.
-Robin Bond


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Seigneur de Leon
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posted 10-17-2001 09:10 PM     Profile for Seigneur de Leon   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
From the Speculum Regale:
"Let the horseman use this dress: first, hose made of soft and well-prepared linen cloth, which should reach to the breeches-belt (broka-belltis); then, above them, good mail-hose (bryn-hosur), of such a height that they may be fastened with a double string. Next, let him put on a good pair of breeches (bryn-braekur), made of strong linen; on which must be fastened knee-caps made of thick iron and fixed with strong nails. The upper part of the body should first be clothed in a soft linen panzer (blautann panzara), which should reach to the middle of the thigh; over this a good breast-defense (briost biorg), of iron, extending from the bosom to the breeches belt; above that a good byrnie, and over all a good panzar of the same length as the tunic, but without sleeves..."
John Hewitt's conclusions:
"the body here is clothed in four different garmets, one over the other; which appear to be the tunic, reaching mid-thigh, the breast-defense of iron (whether formed in a single oiece, or of several smaller plates, does not appear); the haulberk of the chain-mail, and the gambeson, a quilted coat, made in this instance without sleeves."
My observations:
I assume there is another light pair of breeches already on, rather than him buck naked then he puts on hose and a belt?
"a double string" - I assume he is referring to the same pointing arrangement as the way the 13-14th C. hose Black Swan sells are?
The iron knees are riveted to the breeches, so they must be fairly substantial.

--------------------

VERITAS IN INTIMO
VIRES IN LACERTU
SIMPLICITAS IN EXPRESSO


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Egfroth
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posted 03-24-2002 08:18 AM     Profile for Egfroth   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
There has been considerable discussion amongst 11th century re-enactors about this subject, and I have yet to find any mention whatever of a pourpoint/aketon worn under the armour before the First Crusade, which (perhaps coincidentally)was when western knights would have come into contact with the eastern (Byzantine and Muslim) use of quilted protection, both in conjunction with armour and by itself.

Consequently, I no longer wear a padded garment, or anything more than the standard linen undertunic and woollen tunic under my byrnie (except for cheating with elbow protection - I may be tough, I'm not totally silly).

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Go Smiggins Holes 2010!

Egfroth

See my website at www.geocities.com/egfrothos


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Jeff Johnson
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posted 03-24-2002 09:04 PM     Profile for Jeff Johnson   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Been there, done that. It's your skin.

If you're arguing that you don't wear underpadding because it's not historical, then how can you justify elbow padding? As far as I know, elbow padding alone is totally unknown.

[ 03-24-2002: Message edited by: Jeff Johnson ]

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Geoffrey Bourrette
Man At Arms


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Rodric
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posted 03-25-2002 05:22 AM     Profile for Rodric   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Firstly those advocating not wearing padding under mail are not saying that nothing was worn between the mail and the skin. There has been a huge amount of discussion of this topic on many other living history lists. There are very few if any depictions of the padded undergarment, as used by the majority of re-enactors, in primary source material before the late 13th century. There are depictions of padded garments being worn as stand alone protection by lower class soldiers and worn over mail by higher class soldiers.

I personally wear the following according to period.
11th century Norman miles: a linen shirt, a linen lined wool cotte, my mail. a thinly padded linen coif under my mail coif. I find with this arrangement that I have plenty of protection, you would be surprised at how well the lined woolen cotte absorbs impact.

13th century knight: a linen shirt, a thinly padded sleeved aketon/gambeson?. my mail, a slightly thicker padded sleevless gambeson aketon, my surcoat. I find that padding OVER mail works better than under, for the same thickness of padding. It is easier to move, less bulky and binding and cooler to wear the thinly padded garment under the mail and have the thicker sleeveless garment over the top.

I have based these on observations of the Masciejowski Bible and other manuscripts, I can supply my sources if others would like to have a look when I get back from our big Dark Age camp this weekend.

Cheers

Rod

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Cheers
Rod
Sweat more in Training. Bleed Less in War.


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