Greetings Jentien,Maybe I can help... Are you looking at the 14thc extant pieces from the MoL
Textiles and Clothing book? If so, do you also have Sarah Thursfield's Medieval Tailor's Assistant? These two, viewed side-by-side, will help make clearer what I'm about to talk about.
If you are looking at the drawings of extant 14thc pieces on pp. 188 and 189 of T&C (current edition; not sure if page numbers are the same for first edition) you will see in figure 167 the bottom portion of the leg piece, which has an upside-down U shape to it, and you'll see two somewhat fragmented "vamp" pieces which are intended to wrap around the top of the foot and meet in the center of the sole, underneath. If you look at p.189 and fig. 168, you will see what these seams look like on the sole -- like a cross.
Unfortunately, because that figure also has 4 little pieces, one might assume that these make up a four-piece separate sole section, when in all likelihood they just happened to disintegrate along the edge of the sole, leaving four little pieces instead of the wrapped edges of the leg piece and the vamp piece. I think you're better off following the look of the pieces in figure 167 -- 2 pieces for each leg total, than you are following the implied 4-piece sole of fig. 168. (And, keep in mind, these are degraded remnants, not necessarily the exact shapes used when the fabric was originally cut and pieced.)
Sarah Thursfield also redacts the patterns on p. 107 of her book, but I think it's unnecessary to cut the "M" shape into the end of the leg piece. The upside-down U will work just fine, and is a LOT easier to fit (and is fully documentable based on the MoL finds).
I hope this makes sense. If it doesn't, please let me know and I'll try again.
Best wishes,
Tasha