Not very satisfied with what I found on the market, and eager to carry the armour as on the representations (adjusted, moulding, marked size...), I had harnessed myself with the creation of an arming doublet.

Having few sources on the subject, I had left the doublet has great plates which I had tried to adapt to the characteristics of XVe.

Especially do not hesitate to criticize, it is that which will advance me.

Thanks

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I moved your topic to this forum.

The Medieval Market place is a forum for selling your arming doublet.

I am sure that people will soon begin to see your post and offer their opinions.

Cheers,

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What sort of help are you looking for? The garment seems to fit you very well, and we assume it works as well. Perhaps no one is answering because we do not know what help you require?

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Written
Rene de Anjou - 1460s

Item, the body harness is like a cuirass or like the foot harness that one calls a tonnelet. And also you may well tourney in a brigandine if you wish; but in whatever kind of body harness you wish to tourney, it is necessary that the harness be big and ample enough in all places that you may wear a pourpoint or corset underneath. It is necessary that the pourpoint be padded to three fingers' thickness on the shoulders and the length of the arms up to the neck, and on the back also, because the blows of maces and swords fall more frequently on these places than elsewhere. . .

. . . In Brabant, Flanders and Hainault, and in those countries near the Germanies, they are accustomed to arms themselves differently for a tourney. They take a demi-pourpoint of two layers, not more, padded in the back and over the abdomen; and then over this a bracer, four fingers thick and stuffed with cotton. . . .
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Ordinances of Louis XI
"And first they must have for the said Jacks, 30, or at least 25 folds of cloth and a stag's skin; those of 30, with the stag's skin, being the best cloth that has been worn and rendered flexible, is best for this purpose, and these Jacks should be made in four quarters. The sleeves should be as strong as the body, with the exception of the leather, and the arm-hole of the sleeve must be large, which arm-hole should be placed near the collar, not on the bone of the shoulder, that it may be broad under the armpit and full under the arm, sufficiently ample and large on the sides below. The collar should be like the rest of the Jack, but not too high behind, to allow room for the sallet. This Jack should be laced in front, and under the opening must be a hanging piece [porte piece] of the same strength as the Jack itself. Thus the Jack will be secure and easy, provided that there be a doublet [pourpoint] without sleeves or collar, of two folds of cloth, that shall be only four fingers broad on the shoulder; to which doublet shall be attached the chausses. Thus shall shall the wearer float, as it were, within his jack and be at his ease; for never have been seen half a dozen men killed by stabs or arrow wounds in such Jacks, particularly if they be troops accustomed to fighting."

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How a man shall be armed at his ease when he shall fight in foot.
Hastings MS. [f.122b]
Middle English Version

He schal have noo schirte up on him but a dowbelet of ffustean lynyd with satene cutte full of hoolis. The dowblet muste be strongeli boude there the poyntis muste be sette aboute the greet of the arme. And the b ste before and beyhnde and the gussetis of mayle muste be sowid un to the dowbelet in the bought of the arme. And undir the arme the armynge poyntis muste be made of fyne twyne suche as men make stryngis for crossbowes and they muste be trussid small and poyntid as poyntis. Also they muste be wexid with cordeweneris coode. And than they woll neythirrecche nor breke. Also a payre hosyn of stamyn sengill and a peyre of shorte bulwerkis of thynne blanket to put aboute his kneys for chawfygeof his ligherness. Also a payre of shone of thikke cordwene and they muste be frette with smal whipcorde thre knottis up on a corde and thre coordis muste be faste sowid un to the hele of the shoo and fyne cordis in the mydill of the soole of the same shoo and that there be between the frettis of the heele and the frettis of the myddill of the shoo the space of thre fyngris.
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Misc references
Many of these provided by J. Kelman and/or D. Key at one time or another

(1378) Doc.in Riley Mem.Lond.  418:  [Two] paltockes [of black] satyn, [called] jackes.

(1418) EEWills   37/3:  A Doubeled of defence couered with red Lether.

a1475(?a1430) Lydg. Pilgr.(Vit C.13)   7232:  Next thy body shal be set A purpoynt or a doublet

(1444) Will York in Sur.Soc.30   112:  A doublet of defense coverid with velvet, an haberon, a swerd.

(c1450) Pilgr.LM (Cmb Ff.5.30)   59:  The doublet is maad with poynynges, For whi it is cleped a purpoynt. ( the doublet is made with points which is why it is called a pourpoynt.)

(1459) Invent.Fastolf in Archaeol.21   253:  Item, j Pettecote of lynen clothe stoffyd with flokys. Item, j Petticote of lynen clothe withought slyves.  

(1463) Acc.Howard in RC 57   158:  Fusten..ffor to make doblettys off ffence.  (1463-4) Acc.Howard in RC 57   239:  I toke to the dobelete maker..to make me a dobelete of fense, fore hevery for qwarter xviij folde theke of wyte fostyen, and iiij fold of lenen klothe, and a folde of blake fostyen to pote wethe howete.

(1467) in Black Leathersellers   34:  Armyng poyntes [of] Calveslether

 (1473) Paston   5.188:  Sende me a newe vestment off whyght damaske..I wyll make an armyng doblett off it

a1475 Russell Bk.Nurt.(Hrl 4011)   872:  Se that youre souerayne haue clene shurt & breche, a petycote, a dublett, a longe coote

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Visual sources

c1450- the donor portrait of Don Inigo de Mendoza by Jorge Ingles,

How a man shall be armed at his ease when he shall fight in foot.
Hastings MS. [f.122b]
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There's a start for you!

Gwen

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