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Author Topic: Late 14th century button front hoods???
Van de Roet
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posted 03-27-2005 01:16 PM     Profile for Van de Roet     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
All of the references I find indicate that these hoods where much shorter on the shoulder than the "non-buttned" variety, but there is speculation that some of the fabric on extant examples had been removed. I am trying to ascertain an approximate length, over the shoulder, for this item.
I am also trying to determine if a hood of this type would have been fully lined, only have reinforcement on the underside of the buttonholes, or nothing at all added to the insides.

Many thanks,
Jen

[ 03-27-2005: Message edited by: Van de Roet ]


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Charlotte
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posted 03-27-2005 11:47 PM     Profile for Charlotte   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Jen,

Are you working on men's hoods or women's hoods? Just curious.

As far as lining goes, the extant hood described in the MOL Textiles and Clothing book at least has a facing at the buttonhole area. I guess that doesn't preclude a full lining, but it's tough to tell. In Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince, there's references to fur lining in hoods.

As far as length, I've noticed a distinct difference in styles between what you tend to see on men, and tend to see on women. Men are frequently wearing a closed hood down over their shoulders. I've only ever found one instance of a woman wearing a closed buttoned hood down over her shoulders.

Page 7 of this PDF Has a Picture

Though, if memory serves, I've seen one more, it's a line drawing, and the girl is wearing a dagged hood - about 1380s, I'd say. But I don't have it.

Anyway, the women tend to wear the short buttoned hood more often, open down the front. I've noticed that this seems to be a later style, with the longer hoods being eariler in the 14th century. Certainly there was overlap in style; I'm just remarking what I see as a general trend.

I guess I'd ask what look you're trying to replicate, from what year, and for what sex. Then go from there.


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Van de Roet
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posted 03-28-2005 07:07 AM     Profile for Van de Roet     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I do apologize for not elaborating in my previous post. I am trying to recreate a womans hood, based off the extant remains of Hood # 246 in "Textiles and Clothing" pg. 190, fig. 170. Marc Carlson, also takes a look at this particular find at http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/londhd1a.html and reports that the button holes were initially supported by an inner facing, or perhaps a lining, but in inconclusive. I look forward to your input. The fulled the wool I am using for this project is rather itchy.
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Charlotte
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posted 03-28-2005 12:03 PM     Profile for Charlotte   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I believe that particular hood is one of the shorter variety, generally worn unbuttoned, with the shorter "skirt", of the later 14th and into the 15th century. That's my impression at least, and I could be wrong!

As far as lining, I haven't found any conclusive evidence of lining in hoods, at least not from the archaeological finds. We know that fur was used for lining hoods. We also have evidence that linen was used in lining garments (Uppsala Gown). We know this hood at least had a facing. I guess from there, I'd look to see if any pictorial depictions of hoods have a different color inside than out. Other than that, I'd say it's up to you, and what your level of comfort is in working in a very ambiguous area. If it's itchy, I'd line it, especially as the neck and shoulder skin can be rather sensitive!


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Charlotte
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posted 03-28-2005 11:20 PM     Profile for Charlotte   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
This is early 15th c., but it might help. This woman is wearing a hood, the inside of which is a different color than the outside, indicating some sort of lining.

As a bonus, it's a non-Mary Magdalene wearing what look to me like pin-on sleeves!

http://classes.bnf.fr/ema/grands/ca066.htm


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Marcele
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posted 04-18-2005 12:20 PM     Profile for Marcele     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Hi there Char!

Might you be thinking of the Jacquemart sketch in the Morgan Library in NY? There's an image of a woman with her hood up and dagged down below the shoulders, but all one can see is a very faint vertical line in the center, possibly indicating a seam. This came from French Painting from the Time of Jean de Berry, by Millard Meiss.

-Tasha


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Charlotte
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posted 04-18-2005 01:06 PM     Profile for Charlotte   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
Tasha,

Yes, that's probably the one. I saw it in a book that you have, and it was one of the few closed hoods I've seen on a female, late 14th or early 15th c. I saw it after I did my hood documents, otherwise I would have kidnapped it for a scan.


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Marcele
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posted 04-18-2005 06:05 PM     Profile for Marcele     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I think some of the ladies in the Romance of Alexander from mid-1340s shows women with closed hoods too, but it's been a while since I've taken a serious look... so I could be confusing them with the men...? I don't recall seeing buttons on those closed hoods though.

-Tasha


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Charlotte
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posted 04-19-2005 01:47 PM     Profile for Charlotte   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Marcele:
I think some of the ladies in the Romance of Alexander from mid-1340s shows women with closed hoods too, but it's been a while since I've taken a serious look... so I could be confusing them with the men...? I don't recall seeing buttons on those closed hoods though.

-Tasha


I don't believe that there are. I only say that without looking, because last March I was trying to dig up any and all images in women in closed hoods (14th & 15th century), buttoned or otherwise. I had all of the images from the RoA downloaded by then, and I'm certain I looked through them. There's a woman with an open hood, handing her heart to a suitor, (IIRC?) but I don't think there's any ladies with closed hoods.

-Charlotte


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Charlotte
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posted 04-26-2005 12:55 AM     Profile for Charlotte   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I think I found another one...

You cannot see buttons, but I believe this hood fits snugly enough that you would need buttons to close it.
http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/misc/romance_of_Guiron_le_Courtois.jpg

or
http://tinyurl.com/chwpa

I've seen this pic many times, and just never noticed before. *smacks forehead*

Night,
Charlotte


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Van de Roet
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posted 04-26-2005 10:18 PM     Profile for Van de Roet     Send New Private Message   Edit/Delete Post   Reply With Quote
I have seen many pictures of the open hoods in the same style as the one featured in MLC&T, but have though that perhaps the lack of closures might be due to artistic license. I'd get tired of drawing all those little buttons.
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