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Author Topic: Herjolfsnes no. 63 Neb Member Member # 598 posted 06-07-2004 08:27 PM                   Has anybody here attempted construction of this garment (mid-length "cotte")? In looking at the sleeve, I get the impression that the main arm seam is going to want to be almost opposite where a later garment would place it. In other words, it looks like it would end up very high in the back. This will definitely want a mock-up... Cheers, Neb -------------------- Fortus fortuna uvat! Registered: Apr 2004  |  IP: Logged Nick Friend New Member Member # 652 posted 08-18-2004 06:26 PM                   I haven't tried adapting the Herjolfsnes patterns yet, but I have done the Charles de Blois grand assiette design, and have looked at a lot of related examples. My sense is that most fitted coats/tunics with inset sleeves of the 14th and early 15th centuries had the arm seam running along the back of the arm, across the elbow and the line of the tricep, and ending up at the back right in the middle of the shoulder blade. This is a change from the earlier "t-tunic" pattern where the sleeve seam is parallel to the ground and joins the body seam at the armpit. The back-of-the-arm seam makes it possible to run the sleeve right up into the armpit for a very close fit, allowing full rotation of the arm without pulling the side of the garment out of position- very important in a close-fitting pourpoint, though perhaps not such a concern with outer garments such as the Herjolfsnes finds. Registered: Aug 2004  |  IP: Logged Neb Member Member # 598 posted 08-19-2004 04:36 PM                   OK, that makes sense! Thanks! Neb -------------------- Fortus fortuna uvat! Registered: Apr 2004  |  IP: Logged

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