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Author
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Topic: Hardening punch tip
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Lord Thomas the Black
Member
Member # 394
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posted 06-30-2003 10:19 AM
   
I'm in the process of making a set of tools for making riveted maile. I finished the setting tongs, but the punch tongs are giving me some trouble. I can't seem to harden the punch bit enough to punch through my rings. I've annealed the rings, and the metal's soft, so I think i'm doing something wrong on the punch bit itself. The instructions I found said to heat the bit to orange, then plunge into cold water, then clean one face of the punch so it's shiny, then heat again until the shiny part turns blue, then quench in cold water again. Is this correct? Does anyone have a better method?-------------------- Lord Thomas the Black
of House Leatherwolf
Rogue #693, Merc #373,
Mailler, Leathersmith
Registered: Dec 2002 | IP: Logged
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Gobae
Member
Member # 112
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posted 06-30-2003 12:17 PM
First off what type of steel are you using? Because the steel type will affect 2 critical stages of the heat treatment process. First it will affect the hardening stage.If it has too little carbon you will never be able to harden it, no matter how many times you heat it above orange and quench. If you're not sure what steel you've got check out http://www.cdblacksmiths.org/newsletters/cdbnewsnovember02.pdf page 3 "Name that Steel". Second, depending on how hard you got it during step one, your temper color may not need to be quite as hot. In fact it sounds as though you're already going way too hot for all but the most hardened steels and thereby re-softening the material too much. Off the top of my head I'd suggest no hotter than a bronze/brown color. (400F or so) -------------------- Gobae - The Blacksmith
Historic Strides Blog
Ancient Celtic Clans
Registered: Jan 2001 | IP: Logged
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Gobae
Member
Member # 112
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posted 07-01-2003 11:29 AM
Without knowing what sort of steel Dremmel uses for their engraving bits, the best we can do is hope they did indeed use some variety of higher carbon 'tool steel'.This means there shouldn't be any problem with step on (hardening). But to make sure you're going to hit the appropriate temp before quenching, double check the 'orange' temperature. To do this, make sure the metal has reached a non-magnetic state. (Check to see if a magnet will stick to it). Now as far as step 2 (tempering) I already suggested you might be softening too much. I still think that is the case. So try a lighter temper color, say, straw yellow, or bronze. If it's still too soft, skip the temper. It may be that whatever metal dremmel is using is barely hardenable and therefore any temper will make it too soft. I'm sorry I can't be more precise. Without knowing what the steel is, one is left to experiment.  -------------------- Gobae - The Blacksmith
Historic Strides Blog
Ancient Celtic Clans
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Gobae
Member
Member # 112
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posted 07-07-2003 10:09 AM
I did a little more investigating (called dremel in fact). Here's what I found out.Although they could not tell me specifically what grade of "high speed steel" they used for the #105 bits it is not Tungsten Carbide. That steel is reserved for the #1000 series engraving bits. After looking into the definition of "high speed steel" I learned that other steel that meets that designation (besides Tungsten) is Molybdenum alloy series (41XX [American], M1-M52 [European]). Now, even though there are 50+ varieties the one thing they all have in common is a very high carbon content (.8% - 1.05%); you should have no problem hardening those tips. -------------------- Gobae - The Blacksmith
Historic Strides Blog
Ancient Celtic Clans
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